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Re: Re[2]: TR6 door adjustment

To: jbonina@nectech.com
Subject: Re: Re[2]: TR6 door adjustment
From: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU>
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 15:28:53 -0500 (EST)
Cc: blang@MIT.EDU, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
On Mon, 16 Mar 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:

>      
> 
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator 
>_________________________________
> Subject: Re: TR6 door adjustment
> Author:  Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU> at SMTP
> Date:    3/16/98 2:11 PM
> 
> 
>      
> On Mon, 16 Mar 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
>      
>      > If I move the striker plate out, won't the door get "looser"? 
>      Remember, the problem is that it latches, but doesn't stay shut tight.

Yes and no. I had a similar problem on my TR6. When I adjusted the hinge 
"out" and the latch mechanism on the door "in", the latch started working 
okay. Note: this was after much body work and "rust repair", so it stands 
to reason that things were slightly "out of whack".

>      > Should I use PB Blaster first on the striler plate screws?

You probably need some rust stuff on there, the problem is getting on the 
threaded portions of the screws, that threaded portion being "blind" and all.

> >      How do I adjust the door so that it stays shut tight and flush with 
> >      the front and rear body panels?

You loosen things, you wiggle the door up/down and in/out at the top and 
bottom to get the desired effects.

>      > Thanks for the warning about the paint chipping. Unfortunately, a 
>      paint job is needed anyway. I'll be looking for references this 
>      fall/winter of 98/99. How much should I budget for a paint job that 
>      would include new outer rocker panels and a change in color (back to 
>      the original green) ie, under hood, trunk, door jambs, etc.

You will spend as much as you would like. I know this is an ambiguous 
answer, but the key is: the labor is the biggest component of a paint 
job, even when you consider exotic paint schemes (such as two-pack paint 
or Imron(tm)...).

And the amount that you pay is in no way connected to the quality of the 
work. Get references and visit a few shops. If you go into a shop and the 
owner has a picture of a _really big boat_ or a _real race car(tm)_ then 
you know where the money that you pay them is going!

Dead rats on the floor are usually a bad sign insofar as what you'll get 
for your money for the paint job.

Get the estimate in writing and get details in writing!!! Most comsumer 
complaints about this kind of work stems from poor communication between 
the shop and the customer. I had a guy give me a written estimate for a 
paint job once and he wrote in "seal and sand". He skipped that step and 
when he tried laying down paint it was "fish-eye'ing". He called me to 
chew me out about the primer that I used (he was looking for an "out" so 
he could back out of his guarantee). I referred him to our contract, and 
two days later I picked up my car after it had been sanded and sealed and 
then painted properly.

Caveat emptor. (that's latin). let the buyer beware.

> >      Domo, domo
>       Japanese ^
>      
> Vidi, Vici, Veni!!
>      What's this ^

This is Latin also. I'll leave the latin scholars on the list to answer 
the question... It has to do with arriving, seeing and conquering, but 
not necessarily in that order.

> >      Jeff
> >      '73 TR6 in MAss.
>      

rml
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