You need the advance connected. Its not the advance that gives rise to
discussion, it is the retard. Static timing is measuring the moment at which
the points close with the engine NOT running. Generally, when, i.e.
rebuilding the engine, you need to get the timing close in order to be able
to start it. Dynamic timing means the engine running. With the retard
disconnected the book 4 ATDC is no longer correct. I have mine disconnected
and find that it runs best about 10 BTDC.
Jim Altman firstname.lastname@example.org Illigitimi non Carborundum
http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
[mailto:email@example.com]On Behalf Of John Duhart
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 1998 1:49 PM
To: firstname.lastname@example.org; email@example.com
Subject: Re: TR6 Misfire (here we go again!)
I have some info I want to tell everyone. I have the Vacuum advance
attached to the Dist. Setup this way I have set the timing to 10 degrees
BTDC, with the car idling at 800RPM. A lot of people asked about the Vacuum
advance, so is this a problem? What does it mean to do 'static' timing?
>>> Thomas Howard <firstname.lastname@example.org> 05/21 9:32 AM >>>
You need to determine if the trouble is spark, fuel, or cam timing.
Since the engine is new it could be anything.
Check the exhust. Clear? Sooty?
Check the plug color, Black? Brown? Gray?
Move the ignition timeing while the engine is running and observe the
Can you draw a long spark from a plug wire to the block? (more then 1/2
inch) (it take a lot more juice to spark under compression than in free
Cam timing you will have to check with the valve cover off and a degree
wheel. Is there any reason to suspect this?
How about that 10 degrees of spart time. Is that static, running, with or
At 07:47 AM 5/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
> OK, I took the TR6 out last night to get ready for an inspection. Let me
remind everyone that I have just finished a rebuild on the engine, and all
other mechanical parts on the car. The car has about 10-15 miles on it
since the rebuild.
> I put new Champion spark plugs (Y12NC?) in, gapped at .025 in. Car has a
slight misfire at idle, but that is not what is worrying me. When I try to
accellarate the engine mis-fires badly. I had driven it once since the
rebuild with BOSCH plugs in it gapped at about .045in, and I don't recall
this problem. Once I have the car going at about 20-30 MPH, if I let up on
the gas the mis-fire isn't as bad. Hoiwever I can't see the car being able
to do more than 40MPH the way it is right now!
> I checked the points and they are gapped at .015in. Timing is set at 10
> I'm going to puy the Bosch plugs back in and see what if this is a new
problem or just something I didn't notice the first time I drove it.
> If anyone has any suggestions on what to look for please foward them.
And yes I haven't adjusted the carbs on it since the rebuild, no balance
and there needle adjust is set at half a turn from full lean, so if it is
not the plugs this is were I will start.
'72 GT6 (and a good bit of USA iron)
Lakeside Union School District