> padraic mullin wrote
>QUESTION
> i have a set of wires that i want to put on my 64 tr4 in place of the
> steel wheels....do i need to play w/ or change the rear/ front axel?
> is it just a straight forward switch?
> pfm
ANSWER
You don't have to change the axles (like on an MG) but you do have to
change the wheel studs and nuts. (They are shorter so as to fit under
the wheels. The disk wheel studs do not allow the wheel to seat properly
against the splined hub.)
You do of course have to find four splined hubs, four knock offs plus a
hammer and five wire wheels . (Preferably 72 spoke, for strength.
Originals were probably 48, maybe 60 spoke on a 64 but the 72 are much
stronger.)Be careful when buying wheels to get ones with the proper
offset (position of the hub relative to the rim) as an "outie" hub can
cause the wheel to rub against suspension bits and an "innie" can cause
the tire to rub against body work.
Finding the money for the parts is the hardest part.
The studs punch out, the splined hubs bolt on to the wheel, the wheels
slide on and the knock offs spin on. Just be careful to put the hubs on
the correct side of the car, otherwise you will find your wheels falling
off. (When properly mounted they are self tightening in forward
rotation. If mounted on the wrong side they will be self loosening. Not
a good situation)
If you're feeling cheap, you can save a few bucks by using a hack saw on
the existing studs, but you will still need the beveled nuts to get the
hubs and wheels to seat properly.
The use of spacers is not recommended as they increase the track of the
vehicle, increasing the possibility of the tires coming into contact
with the bodywork (particularly in a high speed corner) and put
excessive torsional stress on the wheel bearings which will lead to
premature failure.
Cheerio
Don
|