Thanks, Steve, I'll give it a try. I just went out and bought a one man
vacuum bleeding system for about $40 after I posted the question this
afternoon. It pulls a vacuum at the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and
allows one person to bleed. Unfortunately, I've had no more luck with it.
I've fed a total of about 40 ounces or more through and it still is not
actuating the clutch. It appears to still have air in the lines because the
clear tube is still pulling bubbles. And the slave cylinder is installed
right way up with the bleed valve on top. I'm going to try your method now.
If that doesn't work, I guess I'll have to pull the master cylinder and
From: Steve Chandler [SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 1999 4:18 PM
To: Hutmacher, Greg
Subject: Re: TR6 clutch hydraulics
You might want to try bleeding the master cyclinder. This is done by
loosening the pipe
from the master to the slave, and then pump the pedal a couple of
Put a rag over the
screw because the fluid is going to squirt over your paint.
"Hutmacher, Greg" wrote:
> I'm embarrassed that I'm having to ask this, but I've just spent
> trying to bleed my TR6 clutch hydraulics and have been
> done this simple task a number of times over the years and have
> this much trouble. I've just installed a new master cylinder as
the old one
> was shot. I did not replace the slave cylinder since it appears
> flushed a significant amount of fluid through to flush the
> before I closed the bleed screw. Then I began bleeding the system
> traditional bleed tube in a glass jar full of hydraulic fluid. I
> no air bubbles through the bleed tube anymore, but the clutch
> little resistance and is not actuating the clutch. If the job is
> and all goes well, how long does it take to get the air out?
Maybe there is
> some obvious thing I've overlooked. I hope so. Thoughts?
> Thanks, Greg
> 76 TR6
> 68 MGB/GT
Steve Chandler - Chandler O'Bagy email@example.com