Tim Gaines wrote:
>There are three adjusting screws on each carb. Lowest down is the fast
>idle screw which pushes against the choke cam lever when the manual
>choke is activated. I know how this works. The uppermost screw is the
>usual throttle stop screw with a lock nut. If there weren't another
>spring loaded screw just below this one, I would be balancing the carbs
>(with a Unisyn) by turning the throttle stop screws. The middle spring
>loaded screw sits on a lever which pivots. The upward movement of the
>lever is stopped by the lock nut throttle stop screw above it. Screwing
>this middle screw down opens the throttle but also (through the lever
>action) pushes in a spring loaded pin in the carb body, just above the
>starter box.
I think the manual refers to the appropriate adjusting screw as the "slow
running screw." These are located fairly high on the carb body on the
carb's left side and the screw is supported by a spring. These screws act
on a lever which is attached to the throttle shaft, which is right nearby,
and are mounted in a vertical position.
>What I have done is lock the two throttle stop screws so that there is
>the same clearance between the lobes for both carbs. Then I did my
>balancing by adjusting the spring loaded screws. Does this sound
>right? Is there some standard setting for the throttle stop screws?
>Once again, thanks for any help you can give.
You need to loosen the clamps and linkage between the two carbs first, so
that each carb's idle/airflow can be set independently using the
"slow-running screws" and the Unisyn flow meter. Once the airflow at each
carb is equal, then you may tighten the clamps and linkage to connect the
carbs together again so they act as one.
I think there's something in there about revving the motor to 1500 rpm
after all this and checking the flow with the Unisyn at that rpm, too.
Others may be able to expound further on that.
Hope this helps.
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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