Skip :
For my TR3, I use a 24" length of 3/4" threaded rod, with three nuts. At
the top is a single nut, with an ordinary 3/4" washer beneath it. At the
bottom is a round plate that is probably 1/8" thick (made from the
generator pulley half off a VW), and two nuts tightened together. I use an
impact wrench on the bottom nuts to turn the rod into the top nut, held
with a box end wrench. My bottom plate is probably 5" in diameter
(drilled to fit over the shock mount bolts), but 3 1/2" - 4" (to fit inside
the bolts) would probably do fine. One source might be a 1/2" or 3/4"
"floor flange" from the plumbing dept., or you might be able to stack up
fender washers in graduated sizes.
IMO this setup is stabler and safer than a commercial spring compressor, as
there is absolutely no way it can slip off. Strength appears to be
considerably more than adequate.
I once helped a friend do the springs on his Buick with a commercial
internal spring compressor. I'm lucky to still have all my fingers !
D**ned thing slipped off the coils just as I was picking up the spring off
the driveway, and shot the compressor clear into the yard !
Randall
On Sunday, May 09, 1999 1:25 PM, Skip Montanaro [SMTP:skip@mojam.com]
wrote:
>
> I'm a cheapskate, so I'm considering making my own spring compressor to
> disassemble the front suspension on my TR250. I can get the appropriate
> supplies at the local big box home center, but I'm unsure of the
necessary
> dimensions. What diameter threaded rod should I use? How long does it
need
> to be? What about the thickness of the flat plate at one end or the
other?
>
> Thx,
>
> Skip Montanaro | Mojam: "Uniting the World of Music"
http://www.mojam.com/
> skip@mojam.com | Musi-Cal: http://www.musi-cal.com/
> 518-372-5583
|