Jeff.A.Williamson wrote:
Thanks to all of you who responded to my inquiry on body "dipping". I
contacted the local strip shop today to get a quote and some general
information. Based on the responses from many of you, I think I was able to ask
the right questions, and here are the answers I was given:[SNIP]
5) The acid will disolve aluminum, lead, and any porous metals.
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"porous metals"? Huh? I thought porous meant something that is
not solid. Last time I checked, pretty much all metals are
solid - but hey, I learn something new everyday. I presume they
mean metals other than steel, iron, brass, copper, etc.
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9) There is no residue left behind, and no future seepage.
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I'd get this item in writing - for how long? 6 mos? 1 yr? 2 yrs? And what if
it does seep? Will they pay to repaint? They should use your actual cost to
repaint then depreciate it on a straight line basis over 5 years - I'd ask for
that guarantee.
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10) Cost is $350 per body, $150 for frame, $25 per door, $25 per fender, $50
for hood, and $35 for trunk lid. (If I did the math right, that's $735 for the
entire car, but they'll probably add on another $50 for the front cap).
What do you think?
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Well, if you like the thought of chemicals, go for it. Me? Shoot, I still use
the heat method to disinfect my contact lenses while everyone else is using
chemical, so go figure. I think either dipping or media blasting will work.
Dipping is probably better if the panels are wafer thin and could be warped by
blasting. Of course, if you dip a wafer thin panel, the car body might collapse
on itself on the rack. Then again....... Aw shucks, just dip the damn thing.
:-)
Ross Vincenti
Temporarily Triumph-less
1964 Porsche 356
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