Steve,
Sounds like you might need to get a touch more air out of the clutch
hydraulic system.
When you bleed the system have the slave cylinder loose so that the
bleeder nipple is on the top. That is, let it hang from the top bolt
(with the bottom bolt out) so that the bleed screw is at the VERY TOP.
If you install both bolts and THEN bleed the clutch the bleed screw will
not be at the TOP and there will still be just a little bit of air
hiding above the bleed screw that can compress and cause the
lost of just enough movement in the slave rod to make the clutch not
work properly and may cause you to run gallons of fluif through the
system trying to get it bled (don't ask how I know this).
Bud
71TR6 CC57365
71TR6 CC65446
66TR4A CTC57806
Steve Nabors wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I just installed a new clutch, TOB, sleeve and pressure plate. The taper pin
>was fine and fork pins were in good shape. I put new oil in the tranny(95W-140
>I think). My forward gears work fine. Reverse does a little grinding and
>eventually 'slows down' and goes into gear. By 'slow down' it acts like the
>clutch is not engaging(or slipping) and the grinding slows down until the gear
>catches. I tried the old trick of putting it in another gear and then trying
>reverse(as reverse has no syncro I understand) but that does not work here.
>
> This was not a problem before.
>
> My two push rods(pedal and slave cylinder) look like they've never been
>replaced and I will replace them on the next mail order.
>
> Just in case I went ahead and rebuilt the Master and Slave cylinders. I think
>they were fine before though.
>
> Any ideas whats going on? Is the clutch engagement marginal?
>
> I've not bolted the tranny cover back down as I may change the fluid(if
>anyone has a different recomendation for oil on the tranny). Maybe the new
>thick oil is playing a role here. Like I said, it works fine in all forward
>gears.
>
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