In a message dated 9/11/99 10:14:58 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
nickndan@earthlink.net writes:
<< I'm a new member of the list, hoping to find answers for some of my
misc. questions. Have had a 77 Spit for a number of years, just
picked up a 1957 TR3 (not an A, just a 3) comm. no. TS15098L. Car is
in fabulous shape, actually, or fabulous compared to some of the TR2s
and 3s I've looked at in the past. Went through what looks to be a
good restoration in the late 70s, been garaged ever since and then
not driven for the last 10 years. Engine & carb seals and such are
shot of course, the paint needs to be re-done, and there are some
very minor dents in the body. I want to do a frame-off job over the
next couple of years, and have begun taking fenders and such off to
make getting the body off easier. The interior will soon follow.
So...my questions:
1) The car's interior is, for the most part, pretty nice. Not great,
but I could re-install it and use it for a year or two after
completing a mechanical and body restoration, while I save money for
a good interior kit. To that end, I'd like to apply some
vinyl/leather preservative or conditioner now. Is it just the seat
faces that are leather? How do I tell if they are leather, since I
think there are 100% vinyl kits available? And what product would
you all recommend I use on the vinyl and on the leather?
Only the seat faces were leather. If they don't feel or look much different
from the back and sides they are probably not leather. I use Armorall or
Nu-Vinyl on vinyl and leather cleaner conditioner & cleaner on leather,
obtained from the local parts store. You could also see what they have at the
local leather retail stores if you can find one.
2) What have other people put the bodies on while they worked on the
frame? From looking at it all, it seems I could just build a small
wooden frame with 2x4 or 4x4 "rails" in roughly the same position as
the frame rails and set the body down on it. Does this seem
plausible? Or are there better ideas?
And what kind of paint have people used to paint their frames? Black
glossy enamel?
I found my body tubs to be sound enough to move about without any support
whatever. I simply bolted up a piece between the 2 front mounts for use as a
"handle". Did most all work on 2 x 4 sawhorses. A 2-3 feet high rolling
cradle would be nice though. Only thing is you will probably find that you'll
want to turn the tub over, put it on its side, etc. enough where a fixed
cradle may be more hassle than it's worth. Depends on you and your
circumstances I guess.
3) My car is not an overdrive model. I have read that I can find
virtually any TR2-6 overdrive transmission and stick it in with no
modification. True? I have also read that the rear-end gear ratio
is different on overdrive models (4.1:1 versus 3.7:1 for non-OD).
True? Suggestions on how to make that switch?
Or, do you non-OD TR2 & 3 owners find that the overdrive really adds
much? It added a lot to my Spit, but then it's got those little 13"
wheels... And what's a realistic price to pay for an overdrive and
transmission?
Doing a body off resto and not going to OD trans is a crime IMHO! I have OD
in all my cars and feel this should have been standard instead of optional.
You will doubtless find yourself going somewhere on the interstate someday
and I run around 3K rpm at 80 mph as opposed to around 4K w/o OD. There is
really a big difference on a long trip. No problem keeping up with the
Honda's, Toyota's to say nothing of the TR6's.
An OD trans will set you back anywhere from $500 - $1000 with all the
electrics, depending on what kind of deal you can make. You should probably
figure a trans rebuild in the mix here as well. I believe that any TR2 -
around 73 TR6 trans will be a clean "bolt-in" replacement, later TR6 use the
J-type OD and are different. I have a later style 4 synchro gearbox in my 58
and I still have the old bullet nose starter/flywheel and have no problems.
The early trans will not work with the later TR3A starter without
modification though.
The 4.1 diff was a separate option from the OD, although I believe if you got
a 4.1 diff you also got OD. Unless you plan on drag racing I would stick to
the standard diff.
4) What books, if any, would you recommend I purchase to guide me
through this? I have the Haynes manual for my Spit, which proved
invaluable. Is there one for the TR3? What else should I look to
get?
Factory Workshop manual and Factory Parts book are the best reference pieces.
I believe these are available from TRF. But I will also say that there is a
lot of other good info in catalogues, Haynes, Bill Piggott's books and the TR
mail list! No such thing as too many reference sources.
5) Anyone have any contact information for a British car club in the
Des Moines, Iowa area? I used to belong to a club in Iowa City, but
that's a long ways to go now -- and I know there's a club here, just
not sure how to find them.
>>
Got me on this one. Look in the various magazines that list clubs and/or
check the VTR webpage.
Ken Nuelle
58 TR3A
62 TR3B
64 TR4
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