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Re: Considering Mallory dual point distributor

To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Considering Mallory dual point distributor
From: "Josh Assing" <jassing@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 14:38:27 -0700
Organization: jAssing Consulting
If you're willing to go dual point, which means you don't care about 
stock anymore, go electronic ignition. Check out the Pertronix 
Ignitor.  Uses stock everything, and fits COMPLETELY under the 
rotor & cap. I have (had) it on: 70 240z, 72 Chevy 1ton, 69 Mach I, 
72 F100 4x4, and my 77 TR7.. It works great.
I've done dual points on many cars, including the mach I, but it's a 
headache that's not worth it... Avoid it like the plauge.

> 
> Concerning my 1967 TR-4A IRS...
> I'm plagued with a continuing miss which begins at 2500-3000 rpm, and
> makes the car practically undrivable on the highway.  I've replaced
> points, rotor condensor, plugs, wires, coil, distributor base plate,
> and springs on the centrifugal advance/retard system.  I've sealed the
> leaking vacuum advance diaphram as recommended by another reader
> (which seemed to work), but my miss continues.  The points don't last
> long (the coil sees 12 V, there is no balast resistor).  I installed a
> hotter coil (Accel) which helped some.  I've opened the plug gaps a
> bit, but that doesn't seem to help.  I've replaced the needles and
> jets and rebuilt the carbs--I think they are set up properly.  I
> rebuilt the fuel pump.  
> 
> It does smoke a bit, but the plugs will last six months or so before
> becoming so fouled that they are a problem.  (but I will try a new set
> just to rule them out--the problem was much less when they were new.)
> 
> The only symptom that gives me a clue is the variation in the timing;
> I can see the timing mark swing about under the strobe.  From a
> nominal position (about 0.75 to 1.0 inch on the circumference of the
> flywheeel pulley before top dead center) the mark will move around
> almost to the TDC mark.  I believe that this fluctuation is caused by
> some "jerkiness" or friction in either the centrifugal or vacuum
> advance system, but maybe there is another cause. There is no
> significant slop in the distributor bushing, as far as I can tell.
> 
> Another strange clue...the rotor has a dark smudge indicating (to me)
> that the spark is jumping from one corner of the rotor; I would expect
> this smudge to be more central on the arc-shaped brass rotor surface.
> 
> 
>         _______ * smudge here, I think
>        (=====  )
>          (  "  )
>          (     )
>           \___/
> 
>     Top View of Rotor (imagination required!)
>     (drawn from memory, and I don't have much of that anymore!)
> 
> I'm trying to figure out how it may be that the rotor doesn't align
> with one of the plug wire terminals when the points open; even if the
> timing is right...I have made everything correct, I think, except that
> I haven't removed the gear sits on the cam shaft to drive the
> distributor.  If this is off one tooth, would it cause my problem?
> 
> I'll welcome any advice or ideas.  I'm about ready to chuck the
> distributor and install a Mallory (or just install electronic
> ignition, but if the problem is in the base plate or advance system, I
> haven't solved anything this way)
> 
> Anybody got a Mallory distributor for sale cheap?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------------------------------
> Ray W. James, P.E., Ph.D.
> Civil Engineering Department
> Texas A&M University
> College Station, TX 77843
> Phone (409)845-7436; Fax (409)845-3410
> E-mail: r-james@tamu.edu
> Date: 09/24/1999   Time: 3:38:31 PM
> -------------------------------------
> 



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