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Re: Leaking oil dampers -ZS CDSE's

To: "The List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking oil dampers -ZS CDSE's
From: "Steve Nabors" <topdown@eudoramail.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:02:49 -0800
Organization: QUALCOMM Eudora Web-Mail (http://www.eudoramail.com:80)
Thanks again!
I ended up using an unsharpened pencil as a drift for driving the washer and 
screw out and driving them back in. I know, neanderthal, but it worked fine. 
Any scoring I might have inflicted on the damper wall in negligible. For 
re-inserting the screw and washer I simply drove the two together back in from 
the top with the pencil. Once again, scoring is negligible. I drove it today 
and everything is fine. If scoring did play a role then thicker oil would be in 
order to compensate but I just used the same ole MMM oil. Thanks for all the 
help guys!
--

On Mon, 10 Jan 2000 09:48:05   levilevi wrote:
>
>Steve,
>
>Using the rubber hammer to tap the air valve might be OK but I try to
>avoid pounding on carb parts with anything if I can avoid it.  It might
>be safer to hold on to both the drift and the air valve with both hands
>and use the weight of the air valve to drive the star washer and screw
>out by tapping the end of the drift on the work bench.  It's the star
>washer that's holding the whole thing in there.  Once it's out you can
>slide the adjusting screw with the new o-ring back in easily.  The
>tricky part is getting the star washer back in and getting it flat
>against the adjusting screw.  Push it down the air valve with a screw
>driver and then you'll just have to mess with it (push one side then the
>other) until you can get it flat.  Once you've done one it'll be easier
>on the second.
>
>Bud  
>Steve Nabors wrote:
>> 
>> Bud and Andy,Thanks!
>> My understanding on this is basically set the drift/punch on the workbench 
>with its business end up. Slide the air piston over the business end(upright 
>just like it would sit in the carb)
>> and tap the top of the air piston damper tube(here I'll use a rubber hammer) 
>until the washer and screw slide/pop out the top. Avoid
>> a new years celebration(assembly popping out the top cork style) by not 
>letting the rubber hammer bounce too much on impact. Once
>> I've got it out, replace the seal(a rubber o-ring from the kit) and the 
>screw and washer will go back in relatively easily using
>> a pencil or some other drift. Correct?
>



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