> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris De Wet
>
> After a 3 year search I finally bought my first TR 3 on 10
> January 2000 [
> yes , it's running :-) though it's somewhat difficult to put
> into gear
> :-( I suspect a faulty clutch slave cylinder ].It's a RHD
> model painted BRG
> with black soft top , BRG steel hard top , overdrive :-) ,
> occasional rear
> seat , wire wheels and disc wheels .
Congratulations ! Welcome to the lunatic fringe <g>
> Commission no. TS 10795 . Body no. EB 10648 . There is also a
> number 843758
> stamped on a plate under the body no .( I have no idea what
> this number
> represents. Maybe someone out there can shed some light on
> this , please ) .
> Engine no. TS 30837 E .
> Laycock de Normanville Overdrive Unit serial no. 22/1374/022065 .
> Gearbox numbers : CT 26228 ( on left side of gearbox ) 304692
> SM ( on right
> side of gearbox ) 301768 ( on gearbox top cover between gear
> lever and oil
> level dipstick ). Which number should I use ?
>
> >From these numbers I suspect it to be an early( Jan./Feb. )
> 1956 drum brake
> system TR 3 with a 1958 TR 3 A high port engine . It
> currently has front
> disc brakes but I suspect it should be drums . I'm also not
> sure about the
> gearbox and overdrive unit but I think it's a TR 4 gearbox
> and TR 3 A J-Type
> overdrive .
> Any ideas or comments on this ?
Chris, I think you've got it pretty well pegged, except that your OD is an
A-type, and I would guess it came with the gearbox, from a TR4 of about
62-63 vintage. CT 26228 would be the gearbox serial number. You are
correct, your car should have drum brakes (Lockheed system with a single
master cylinder and integral reservoir for both clutch and brakes) and the
low port, "Le Mans" style head. If you plan to drive the car, I would stick
with the modifications, as IMO the disc brakes, synchro-1st and OD are all
very desirable for a 'driver'.
The parts you would need to convert back to the original configuration are
fairly easy to find here in the US, but shipping to S.Africa is somewhat
prohibitive (roughly $180US + $8US/pound). Note that the low port engine
requires a different intake manifold. The carbs, although somewhat
different, should interchange.
I agree with the others who have responded, your missing clutch slave stay
rod is very likely to be most, if not all, of your clutch problem, and
should be replaced before driving the car any more. The connection between
the mounting bracket and the bellhousing is simply not strong enough to take
the forces involved, without the support of the rod, and the bellhousing
will break sooner or later. The bracket may already be bent (mine is <g>).
Moss Motors (US) offers a free catalog that has lots of good parts diagrams.
It does contain a few inaccuracies (eg it says your engine should have a
high port head, which is WRONG), but is most useful for seeing how things go
together. You can either order or download one from Moss' website at
http://www.mossmotors.com/cataloglayout/marques/triumph/trpage.html . It
also has some useful tech tips, where to find numbers, what they mean, etc.
(No Financial Interest)
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver
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