Fred :
I'd like to help, but I need to know a little more : how was the switch
wired (ie is it a simple battery disconnect, or a racing style switch
that disconnects several circuits), and how did you test it (both before
and after replacing the apron) ?
You don't by any chance have the engine running when it "doesn't work",
do you ?
My car (and the Haynes) does not have any wires "coming across the
front". Each horn has a separate brown/green hot wire that runs in the
harness along the inner fender back to the fuse block. If someone has
modified your horn wiring, I'd look very close at where it is connected
to the battery vs where your switch is.
Randall
Fred Thomas wrote:
>
> Listers, the T/R 3 is back together, nose, letters (correct spelling), and
> all the lights are working correctly, now before I put the nose back on the
> battery cut-off switch worked fine everytime I tried using it, now the
> switch does not shut the battery off either way I turn the switch. The horn
> wire (large brown), (I think) is the only hot wire coming across the front,
> could I have connected this wrong, or any ideas why the switch does not now
> work. Thanks "FT"
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