I 've had a similar experience with spring removal on my TR2. The long
version is I had to drill out the bolt with a 18" long 5/8" drill . Yes
through the body. Don't hammer on it .The frame will move before the bolt.
This was after putting liquid wrench in a bag sealed to the frame hoping to
break the rust. Nada. The drill, use the drill Luke. I cut the bolt off at
the frame (spring side) and used the puller tool Herman Van Den Akker(a copy
of the Churchill tool) made to keep pressure on it . I started hammering on
it till I noticed a pucker starting in the frame. Then I put a hole in the
body so I could get a straight shot at the Bolt. Center punched it and put a
starter 1/4 " hole mostly in the center of the bolt. I just kept drilling
the hole larger till it was gone. The bolt had rusted minorly to the frame
and wouldn't slide out like the first side.All this to install new springs
and that snappy spring locator kit from Gillanders/ Racestorations( British
Frame and Engine ). In the end it was worth it but what a chore. Lottsa Luck
.
Michael Andrews
TR2 #TS7687
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>From: "Michael Ferguson" <fergie@ntplx.net>
>To: TR <triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Rear Spring Removal
>Date: Fri, Apr 7, 2000, 5:44 PM
>
>
> Decided to remove the rear leaf springs on my '3A to replace the front eye
> silentblocs. Followed instructions in the book and the pin on side one came
> out with barely a groan on my part. Cool! Now on to side two...
>
> The pin that I removed from side one has a round head with a flat on one
> side which butts up against a corresponding stud welded to the frame to keep
> it from turning. Has a threaded hole in it just like the book says. Screw a
> 5/16 x 24 UNF in there and pry it out. Side two has the threaded hole, but
> the round head is about twice a thick - and appears welded to the frame!
> Prying does nothing...Hammer does nothing; foul language even less! There
> also appears to be no flat on the head of this stud, nor a corresponding
> piece welded to the frame...of course, if you weld the whole thing to the
> frame, who needs a flat?!
>
> Has anyone run into this before? Short of torching it out, is there a
> solution? Based on the condition of the bush on side one, I was tempted just
> to put it back together, but you know the old story..."as long as I've got
> it out..."
>
> Now, I'm MORE than tempted to put it back like it was. From what I can see
> of it, side two is in about the same condition as side one. I'm not real
> sure how to determine acceptable condition of these things so if anyone has
> a suggestion as to how I can evaluate, I'd love to hear it.
>
> Am I an official DPO victim now? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks!!
>
> Michael Ferguson
> 1959 TR3A TS53990L
>
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