Last Resort???
If all else fails, and the 3/4" plugs are actually the problem, perhaps a
bit of water down the carbs would break up some of the crud on the exposed
threads. I've seen some alleged 'pros' dump a remarkable amount of water
down a V8's carb, supposedly to break up the carbon ( and dump it in the
catalytic converter, I suppose...) Bring it to operating temp ( it still
runs, right?) run the engine up to about 2500 rpm, and toss a few
tablespoons in. ( Not enough to cause hydrolock!!!) If you've ever
replaced a headgasket after a good combustion chamber/water leak, you've
seen how clean the chamber is. There will certainly be a good deal of
thermal shock present, and this might cause problems, but I did mention this
was a last resort....
Bob Westerdale
Mike :
You've already gotten good replies : Make sure your plugs are 1/2" reach
(this refers to the distance from the end of the threaded part to the
gasket surface), and use anti-seize on the new plugs. Wouldn't hurt to
chase the threads in the head, either. The plug threads are metric,
M14-1.25, and it's probably best to buy a tool made especially for
chasing spark plug threads. Any auto parts store should have one.
I'll add that PB-Blaster, or carb cleaner, may work better on loosening
the old plugs than WD-40. IMO WD-40 has lots of uses, but penetrating
oil is not one of them. The "loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten" is a
good idea.
Randall
59 TR3A
Mike Barron wrote:
>
> Tried to remove and replace the plugs on the "weenie" a few weeks ago
> (TR3) and got two out, and gave up on the other two, and tightened
> them back up. COULD NOT get them out. Going to try using WD40 to
> lubricate the threads by loosening, spraying, tightening and
> loosening, and repeating the process until plugs come out. Question:
> How do I prevent this in the future? (Providing I am successful in
> getting them out this time)
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