Blake :
Without an anti-run-on valve, your engine may ... (wait for it) ... run on
!
IMO no big deal if you are willing to get in the habit of letting the
clutch out with the brakes set and the transmission in gear after you turn
off the key.
The ARV really has nothing to do with emissions, except that the other
emission controls tend to make the engine want to keep running after the
key is turned off. My Chevy passed the "detailed" version of California's
smog check (including tailpipe sniffer during a dyno run) with it
disconnected just a few months ago. (Of course, the Chevy's anti-run-on
device is considerably different, but the principle is the same.)
If the run-on really bothers you, you can try disabling the vacuum retard
and setting the idle speed to specifications with the timing set to the
'static' spec (10 BTDC or something like that). That usually cures the
run-on. Of course, it's also illegal ...
Randall
On Wednesday, June 14, 2000 9:50 AM, Blake Discher
[SMTP:bdischer@blakedischer.com] wrote:
>
> Hi gang...
>
> The small hose connector of the Anti-Run-On valve which connects that
valve
> to (what I believe to be) the inlet manifold has broken off (from the
> ARV). Consequently the hose is dangling and 'sucking air'. If I put my
> finger over the end of the hose (where it should connect to the ARV), the
> engine idles smoother. Here is my question: is the Anti-Run-On valve
> really needed (other than to satisfy Uncle Sam during the 70's emissions
> insanity) or can I just cap the hose off? This would leave the opening to
> the ARV (still in place) open. Any dangers to leaving things as they
> are? Or should I replace the ARV?
>
> BTW, I am heading off on a lighthouse tour with the Detroit Triumph
Sports
> Car Club tomorrow. We're heading to the eastern coast of Northern Lower
> Michigan. Should be a blast. About 22 cars are making the trip for a
long
> weekend.
>
> Best regards,
> Blake Discher
>
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