The standard TR4 clutch will handle the power and IMO is a stronger,
more durable setup. The main reason for the change was that the later
clutch is much cheaper to manufacture. However, it's also lighter, so
if you're trying to minimize rotating weight, it might make sense to go
to the 'heavy duty' TR4A clutch. Note that you will also need to change
the nose piece on the tranny to use the later clutch.
59 TR3A daily driver
> Hello List,
> Are there any strong opinions one way or the other regarding the Moss clutch
> choices for a TR4 (&4A)?
> There are quite a few clutch choices;
> standard TR4 Kit is $234
> standard TR4-A Kit is $140.
> 'heavy-duty' TR4-A Kit is $300.
> The pressure plate I have now has very low miles (standard TR4 coil spring
> type) and my plan was to clean up the surfaces of flywheel and pressure plate
> and put in new friction disc for $80.
> Now wondering if the 'snappier action' (half the foot travel to disengage) of
> the TR4-A clutch is worth the expense to change up. (pressure plate, friction
> disc, throw-out bearing and bearing sleeve)
> And if the TR4-A clutch was better why did they have to develop a 'heavy
> duty' version (offered at double the cost)?
> Is the standard TR4 clutch more rugged/reliable than the standard TR4-A
> Horsepower when I am done will be slightly up - maybe 110 if all goes well.
> And I'm installing the overdrive unit (adding more weight to the spinning
> drive train).
> Not thinking of racing the car - well .. maybe years down the road :-)
> Any thoughts on choice of clutch for a slightly upgraded 'sports-driver' ?
> Carl Sereda
> '63 TR4 since '74