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Re: Triumphs@Autox.team.net daily digest V1 #199

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Triumphs@Autox.team.net daily digest V1 #199
From: Aribert_Neumann@magna.on.ca
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 15:50:37 -0400


THis response is a bit late.  I placed this message in the draft box a week (or
more) ago and then forgot about it.  Since I do not remember any one responding
to the lister's question, I am submitting mine.

3M  3684 Auto Glass Resealant,   This is a black mastic that does not harden, it
is messy to work with but cleans up with any  "grease and wax remover".  Both
products can be gotten thru automotive paint suppliers. Or buy the Resealant
from  Eastwood  for $10 per cartridge.  I use this product on both sides of the
" H" section of the rubber seal (body and glass grooves).   THis is considerably
messier since the cord will get covered with the resealant and consequently
anything that the cord touches when it (cord) is removed.   THe beauty of using
a G&W remover is that it does not affect painted surfaces to clean up the
residual (excess resealant) mess.






Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 14:09:22 -0400
From: "Brian Sanborn" <sanborn@net1plus.com>
Subject: RE: Windshield Frame Seal



Like you... I did not use any sealing goop when installed a new
windshield glass and gasket.

Well the drivers side didn't leak and the passengers leaked like
a faucet in the heavy downpours.

I am going to redo the passengers side.   Any suggestions on what
the "professions use for this sealing job?

Bottom line is that I should have used sealant inside the gasket
grove when installing the glass.

Brian Sanborn
62 TR4  CT16260L - Groton, MA
























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