Alan,
The rod should be 6 inches long or longer. 1/4 inch diameter should be =
OK. It should slide in the hole in the bottom of the air valve after =
the metering needle and carrier have been removed. It should be no =
bigger in diameter than the needle carrier. The rod need not be steel =
--- a wood dowel would also work. dowels and steel rods are carried by =
most hardware stores. I just used a scrap piece of steel rod I had in =
the shop. You might try using a wooden pencil -- eraser end in first. =
If you break it off in the carb, you'll have to go get the steel rod to =
shove both the pencil remains and the clip out.=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Alan=20
To: Nelson A. Riedel=20
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net=20
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: carberator rebuild
nelson,
thanks for the reply, what i need to know is what size & where to get =
the steel rod that is mentioned to tap out the o-ring ,out of the air =
guide rod.
thanks
al
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Nelson A. Riedel=20
To: Alan=20
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: carberator rebuild
Alan,
Following is from an article I wrote for our club newsletter. I see =
you're on roadrunner so you have bandwidth. If you want, I'll send the =
three parts covering the complete overhaul(word files). By the way, =
this is for the CD carbs used on the TR5/TR6 =20
Nelson
-------------
Overhauling the Top of Carburettor
The parts accessed via the top of the carb include the damper =
assembly, the air valve, air valve return spring, the diaphragm and the =
metering needle and associated parts attached to the bottom of the air =
valve. The four screws securing the washer and diaphragm ring to the =
top of the air valve should be removed, the diaphragm lifted off and =
then all the parts thoroughly cleaned and inspected. =20
The following sketch taken from the Haynes manual shows a cross =
section of the components associated with the metering needle. A long =
Allen wrench (taken from the mixture adjusting tool discussed later) is =
used to turn the needle adjusting screw. Turing the screw clockwise =
raises the needle making for a richer mixture. The opposite direction =
yields a leaner mixture. The needle adjusting screw has an O-ring seal =
that prevents the oil from draining from the air valve guide rod. =
Remember that note about the carb leaking oil that fell out of the carb =
when the top was removed? Well, it's that O-ring that is at fault. =
The only reason to remove the needle is to replace this O-ring or a =
broken needle. (How does one break a needle????? I've seen several =
--- maybe someone was so upset with the carb that they ran a blunt =
object like a hammer through the main chamber.)
=20
The needle is held in a carrier by a spring and is free to move side =
to side. This allows the needle to adjust position as required when the =
air valve moves within the design clearances. The needle and carrier =
are removed together and no attempt should be made to separate the =
needle from the carrier. To remove the carrier, carefully turn the =
adjusting screw counterclockwise. The retaining screw is left in so that =
the needle carrier doesn't turn with the adjusting screw. If the =
adjusting screw becomes hard to turn, remove the retaining screw. The =
needle carrier should be extended far enough at this point so that it =
can be stopped from turning with your fingers. The needle and carrier =
can be pulled free once the retaining screw is removed and the adjusting =
screw is completely unscrewed from the carrier. To get at the O-ring, a =
steel rod is inserted in the bottom side of the air valve guide rod and =
gently tapped with a small hammer driving the adjusting screw and the =
retaining clip out the top of the air guide rod. These parts are shown =
in the previous photo. Left to right at the bottom are the retaining =
screw, the adjusting screw, the retaining clip and an old O-ring. =20
The new O-ring is lightly lubricated before it is installed on the =
adjusting screw. The adjusting screw can then be inserted in the top of =
the air valve guide followed by the retaining clip and tapped into place =
with the steel rod and hammer. The needle valve and carrier can be =
reinserted and the adjusting screw tightened to lift the needle into =
position. The retaining screw is installed next; making sure the spigot =
end of the screw enters the slot in the side of the needle carrier. The =
correct starting position for the needle is with the bottom of the =
delrin washer on the needle flush with the bottom of the air valve. =20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: "Alan" <asalvato@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 8:01 PM
Subject: carberator rebuild
CARBERATOR REBUILD: does anyone know what kind of tool to use to =
knock out
the o-ring between the retaining clip and the metering needle. and the =
seals
on the throttle shaft.
thanks
al salvatore
=20
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