Kinderlehrer wrote:
>
> Thanks Randall, Fred and Jim for the great advice. So much for accuracy of
> Haynes, I checked again and if says H.5.
So does mine.
> The carbs are back to gether and on the car. The good news is it actually
> starts, the bad news is I can't seem to get the front jet assembly to stop
> leaking. I've had it apart twice and checked the parts against the
> diagrams, ok, first time I took it back out I found that I had the top fiber
> and copper washers reversed, but I fixed that and its still leaks.
Err, what fiber washer ? As I recall, all the washers in the jet assy
are either cork or brass. The only fiber pieces on the whole carb are
the float bowl lid gasket, the damper piston gasket, and the air cleaner
and manifold gaskets.
> It's
> coming from the bottom, around the jet. Will it miraculusly stop leaking,
> or do I have to pull that carb again?
I've never had one stop leaking on it's own, except when the float bowl
is finally dry ! IMO you'll have to pull the jet assy again, although
like the float bowl bolts, this is possible with the carb still on the
car. Examine the jet carefully, the bottom half has to be very smooth.
A nick or scratch may cause it to leak. I have also seen brand new jets
that leaked where the clevis was attached. Remove the cork (or
neoprene) seal from inside the lower housing, and make sure the inner
surface of the housing (especially the tapered seat at the bottom) is
clean and smooth. When reassembling, be sure to put the lower cup
washer with the cup towards the seal, then the spring, then the upper
cup washer the other way (with the cup facing the upper seal). If you
didn't replace the spring before, do it now, but do not try to increase
the tension by stretching it. Doing so will almost certainly cause the
jets to not return home when you release the choke.
BTW, I've been very happy with the "O-ring" jet seals that Moss sells.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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