On Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 00:50:48 -0500
"Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@home.com>
Wrote Subject: Bonnet Issues
Ok, I am at the point where I am reassembling the main body, just about to
prime everything...(The engine is being rebuilt at the same time, parallel
restoration)
I have sworn to do battle with the Herald bonnet. No matter what I do, I can
not get the gaps between bonnet and door to match on both sides! The
passenger
side is apparently all the way forward, and the driver side all the way back,
yet the gaps are opposite! Passenger side is tight, and driver side is wide.
What gives? I know the bonnet was damaged from a front impact on the
passenger
side, but everything there seems to measure out properly. Then, once I think
I
have everything set, I open and close the whole mess a couple times, and it
finds a new position.
Besides getting truly pissed(American AND Brit connotations), what can I do?
Any ideas?
Scott
Scott,
I had mine done professionally, and after 5 days (expensive) work, even they
admitted that it was not possible, with the assistor springs fitted.
we put this down to the probability that the new chassis front cross tube may
have been welded on fractionally too low by another Triumph restoration
specialist. On removal of the assistor springs we got an acceptable gap
between the front wings and the doors, although it is even now not exactly
the same side to side.
Furthermore, after 4+ years and 9,000+ miles on the road, it has all moved
around slightly! This is normal with this type of construction.
Having spoken to people who worked in the factory, they all say the same
thing, that in the end, they can only do their best, and most of the cars
left the factory with differing gaps from one side of the car to the other!
so at least that is original!!!
I now quote from my much thumbed copy of the Triumph factory service training
notes: Body: Herald range 13/60 & Vitesse.
page 10, frame 9. Bonnet adjustment to door.
The mounting points for bonnet and wing assembly are on the overrider
bracket. Each consists of 2 links having a pivot and a slotted hole.
The slot gives either up or down adjustment. Having set the bonnet to correct
clearance with scuttle, 2 adjustable support stays maintain the bonnet in
it's correct position.
And ideal clearance between the bonnet, scuttle and door is 5/16" (8.0mm).
page 11, frame 10, Adjusting bonnet to scuttle.
The following method gives adjustment of the scuttle:
(a) The bonnet has a fixed bracket in which a conical spigot locates.
(b) The scuttle has an adjustable spigot with a conical shaped rubber end.
(that is the adjustable cone at the top corner-use the nylon ones from Six
Spares, not the repro soft rubber ones, as they are too soft)
(furthermore, the bonnet support bracket bolt holes in the scuttle and
bracket gives 2 way adjustment to bonnet).
(the above adjustments are critical to all of the gaps, on opposing sides of
the bonnet).
(c) The catch plate which holds the bonnet in the locked position is adjusted
by slotted holes.
Finally, ideal clearance at the rear edge of the bonnet to the edge of the
scuttle in front of the bottom of the windscreen is 3/16" or 4.762 mm.
(I have found that the best small bump stops for the top corners of the
bonnet, (not those adjustable cones), are available for the Rover 2000, 2200,
3500 P6/P6B range of cars. I think I got mine from a company called S G
Walker, but don't have their details to hand right now)
OK, now to the original factory workshop manual:
page 5.205
Height adjustment:
Slacken the locknut securing the cone-shaped buffer to the mounting bracket
on the scuttle panel. Screw the buffer in or out to respectively lower or
raise the bonnet rear edge. Re-adjust the bonnet catch plate on the dash side
panel accordingly.
Horizontal adjustment.
If slight adjustment is required to achieve a parallel clearance of 3/16"
(5mm) between the bonnet and scuttle panel, slacken the locknuts (on the
bonnet adjustment rod-behind the front overrider), and turn the sleeve nut on
either side as necessary.
Appreciable horizontal or vertical movement will necessitate the removal of
both overriders.
Vertical adjustment.
Slacken the link bolts, (those are the two located one above the other on the
bracket hidden behind the front overrider), and lift or lower the front of
the bonnet until parallel clearance between the bonnet and the door is
achieved.
During this movement the bonnet will pivot on the rear stops. Re-tighten the
link bolts when adjustment is complete.
I am copying this email to both the Triumph Herald & Vitesse yahoo group
lists for their input to your problem.
Oh yes, one last thing, it helps to have two people doing this job working
together! :-)
Good luck, and persevere!
LC)on
1921 French Grand Prix driver: Albert Guyot, to Ernest Ballot ,
"Therebs only one winner in any race: the man who gets home first."
1963 Triumph Vitesse 2-Litre Convertible (Diva)
1988 Volkswagen 1600GT Scirroco Coupe (Driver)
Wimbledon, London, England.
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