>Message text written by Mark Hooper
>><snip> I am concerned that
>lightening the flywheel would make the whole machine shake quite badly at
>idle. Is this rough idle normal and thus I should fix carb issue 1 before
>worrying about weight issue 2 ?<
>
>I don't know how it will affect the idle but remember that the inertia in
>the flywheel is one of the things that helps launch the car from a
>standstill and with your warmer cam you've already traded off some of the
>low end torque of the engine. Good for racing, I suppose but if you want a
>street car that won't die at stop signs...
I mentioned I had the machine shop shave off 4 lbs from my TR6
flywheel as per the Competition Preparation Manual. I still get what
seems to me to be a silky-smooth idle. It's true that the cam's got
a lot of influence here
I have a Delta Camshafts cam that's billed
as a 'torque improvement' cam. Can't remember the specs on it. But
it's nearly impossible to kill that car with the clutch
it'll pull
nice and smooth right off the bottom. I remember visiting a
machinist one day whose driveway was a narrow lane that climbed a
steep incline about 1/4 mile off the main road. I put it in second
gear and let the car IDLE all the way up the hill, and it did so
without protest. I always thought that was pretty impressive, but
then a TR6 is the most powerful car I've ever driven
I've never been
at the wheel of a muscle car with REAL brute force power and torque.
Point is, I would not expect shaving 4 lbs off would really be all
that noticeable. I would stay away from the aluminum flywheels,
though!
Sounds like you should focus on getting the carbs tuned up good first, though.
--
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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