A 61 TR4 should not have a voltage stabilizer, it should have the 'curved
glass' instruments which used a 'balanced' movement for the fuel and temp
gauges. For the balanced movements, it's important that the gauge body be
grounded. Bad ground to the panel, or between the panel and the body, can
cause incorrect or erratic readings.
I believe the senders are the same for C or F, but there were different
senders used with different gauges. The senders appear identical, but have
different resistances, which would cause the gauge to read wrong. I don't
recall offhand when the changeover point was, might've been after the TR4.
But if Robin has a later gauge and bought an early sender, the wrong sender
might be the problem.
The balanced movements do have adjustments on the back, but they are very
difficult to get right without opening the case. Loosening the nuts without
disassembling will likely result in a gauge that doesn't work at all, may
even damage it.
At least some of the later thermal 'flat glass' gauges I've seen have a slot
in the back for a screwdriver adjustment. It takes only tiny movements to
make a change, so don't get carried away.
Art Kelley wrote :
> Folks, anyone help on this. He has installed a new voltage
> stabilizer and is
> getting 10 volts out with slight variation of 0.1volts. This is
> an early
> ('61) TR4 gauge calibrated in degrees F. Mine is a later one
> (degrees C)so I
> am not sure if there is an adjusment on his gauge or not. Haynes
> says that
> the components of the temp system cannot be repaired. Yeah,
> right. Please
> respond to him, copy to me (or the list). Thanks.
> Art Kelly
> In a message dated 31-Jan-02 22:13:14 Eastern Standard Time,
> email@example.com writes:
> > Mr. Kelly,
> > My question concerns the calibration of the water temp gauge.
> Is there a
> > more elegant way to adjust it than bending the needle. I have
> purchased a
> > new sending unit, but my gauge continually reads about 30-40
> degrees high.
> > I appreciate any
> > help you can provide.