Thanks for your collective input on this one. I have in front of me
three dizzy caps. From each I have taken measurements with my
caliper to determine and compare the 'depth' of the three caps.
I've measured from the flat bottom surface of the cap to the little
crescent-shaped ledge at the top of each contact inside the cap. On
each cap I took five measurements, each time at a different terminal,
and then averaged those and on my current cap I measured 1.246". On
a second cap, I measured 1.3666" and on the third cap I measured
1.3398".
Then I installed the rotor on the dizzy shaft and measured carefully
from the top of the rotor blade's surface to the highest flat surface
where the cap mates to the body. That measurement appears to be
1.205". I took these measurements as carefully and as accurately as
I know how, using my dial caliper.
Each of the three caps is constructed a little differently
internally. All are Intermotor caps that I purchased from BPNW.
I can feel what I can only describe as a 'teeny' bit of play in the
dizzy shaft. I have no way to reliably measure the runout in the
shaft.
I can see some chipping of the plastic surrounding the terminals on
their trailing edge. (and yes, I'm sure it's the TRAILING edge of
the terminals) I don't see any evidence of collision on the leading
edges of the terminals. And I do see wear on the terminals right
where the outer edge of the rotor's blade would be brushing the
terminal. There WAS physical contact between the rotor and the
terminals, but I'd call it very light contact.
Now that brings up the question: Is the rotor supposed to physically
connect with each terminal as it swings past, or is there supposed to
be a slight gap between the parts, small enough to encourage a spark
to jump, but large enough to prevent actual contact?
Second question is, would someone please explain why a crack in the
rotor body necessarily renders the rotor non-functional? I don't
really doubt that it does, mind you
I just want to know WHY.
Third question is: What is the CORRECT way to test the rotor's
integrity. On the last rotor I touched one probe of my VOM to the
rotor blade (rotor installed on dizzy shaft) and then touched the
other probe to ground. The result on the dial face was infinity. I
would expect that if the rotor were actually bad, the reading would
show little or no resistance. I did the same thing with this rotor
and got the same result. Is there a way to test a rotor with an
ohmmeter to absolutely diagnose it as bogus?
--
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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