> - Motor oil - is a standard 10-40 detergent oil acceptable?
Keep an eye on the viscosity as the miles accumulate, I had trouble many
years ago with the viscosity improver in 10W40 oils breaking down (leaving
roughly 5 weight oil behind) in only a few thousand miles. No doubt the
viscosity additives have improved since then, you might well never have the
problem, it's just something to keep an eye on. Personally, I use only
Valvoline 20W50 full synthetic (SynPower). Probably a waste of money, but
that's what I use.
> - Additives - I've seen additives that fill pitting, provide extra
> lubrication (motor honeys, etc.)... do any of these make sense?
IMO, no. Be especially wary of anything with Teflon or PTFE in it, they can
actually clog the oil filter. STP or Motor Honey might be useful, but only
to solve the problem I mentioned above, they are essentially viscosity
improvers. They will also break down, and leave sludge deposits that may
clog the rocker shaft.
> - Break fluid - standard or silicone... which is recommended?
I'm a firm believer in silicone. TRF sells quart bottles of DOT 5 at a
fairly reasonable price (but still probably twice what paint remover, aka
DOT 3-4, costs).
> - Radiator fluid - what is recommended and how about leak sealers?
50/50 ordinary anti-freeze and distilled water, change it every two or three
years whether the engine has been run or not. I haven't tried any of the
fancy "long-life" products yet, although I do plan to try "No-Rosion"
someday (on the recommendation of Fred Thomas).
You should not need any additional leak sealer, they are strictly a
temporary band-aid for a problem that should be corrected. However, when I
need one, I use Aluma-seal.
Randall Young
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (currently sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver (Real Soon Now)
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