> This subject has been the results of exhaustive and acrimonious
> discussion.
Dunno about the acrimonious part, but it's certainly been exhaustive !
> However the weight of opinion seems to be on the side of using
> 20W50 racing
> motor oil in the overdrive units.
...
> Ask Randall Young for some details, he seems to have made a study of the
> subject.
I've actually been more reporting what others have said, collected over many
years of A-type ownership. Laycock, the makers of the OD unit, specifically
warned against using 'hypoid' oils and recommended motor oil. Ken
Gillanders of BFE reported that Standard-Triumph changed the recommendation
to gear oil around 1960, based on some problems they had with short gearbox
life; and the 20W50 racing oil recommendation came from him.
> I recall somebody disagreeing with him once and nearly got
> themselves flamed
> to death. It was like watching that scene in Shrek where the ogre accosts
> the poor (torch and pitchfork-carrying) villagers. (grin ;^) )
Don't want to reopen any old wars here either. Let's just say that I
welcome opposing viewpoints, but I have a distinct tendency to argue things
into the ground, and personal attacks are met in kind. The comparison to
Shrek facing down the villagers is not altogether inaccurate (or
unflattering) <g>
Now to the real stuff :
> Here is the big goof. With operating valve still loose to
> bleed air, I push forward on adjusting lever to engage OD. Lever springs
> forward past something internal approx. 90 degrees and wont come back to
> original position no matter how much I plead.
> Someone please tell me that I wont have to disassemble trans/OD to
> reset
> adjusting lever.
Ok, you don't have to disassemble to reset the lever.
Remove the plug for the operating valve completely. Make sure you find and
fish out, the spring, plunger and ball that should be under it. If you look
in where the ball seats, you should see a fairly small hole in the center.
Take a length of stiff wire (coat hanger or 'baling' wire), and put a double
kink in it, such that it will start into the hole and then bind as the kink
goes in. When you pull back on the wire, the operating valve should come
out with it. See
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD4/AOD4.htm
(about 1/4 way down) for a photo of this operation. Inspect the valve to be
sure it wasn't bent or damaged when you tried to move the lever before. If
it's bent, probably best to replace it. Now move the adjusting lever back
home and drop the operating valve back into place.
While you've got it apart, turn the output shaft a few turns, and check that
you have oil flooding into the valve area. See
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD5/AOD5.htm
for more suggestions on troubleshooting.
After you drop the ball back into place, adjust the solenoid by measuring
how much the ball rises rather than looking at the 'adjustment' lever.
Again, details at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD4/AOD4.htm
near the bottom. BTW, if you want to engage the solenoid with the plug out,
either hold your thumb over the hole, or push the lever into the engage
position by hand first. Otherwise, the ball will get launched !
Randall
"If I have seen further, it is by standing upon the shoulders of giants" -
Sir Isaac Newton
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