Scott, (and everyone)
Rather than just Permatex Gasket maker,
They also make a 'flowable silicone' It will 'ooze'
out into a very smooth layer all on its own.
No trimming required to get it flat.
The label itself says... Flowable Silicone.
I've also had good luck simply looking through the
o-ring box at my local Pep Boys auto store
and finding the right size o-ring to simply lay in the ring.
(right cross section as well as right diameter)
Paul Tegler wizardz@toad.net http://www.teglerizer.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Suhring <suhringtr36@comcast.net>
To: Mickylong@aol.com <Mickylong@aol.com>; triumphs@autox.team.net
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:04 PM
Subject: RE: Gauge repair
>Here is a tech tip that I recently wrote for our club newsletter (when
>you're the editor, you tend to write a lot of articles) on this exact
>subject:
>
>Anyone who has disassembled their dash gauges can appreciate the
frustration
>of first trying to remove the chrome ring that holds the glass secure to
the
>gauge and then finding the dried up remains of the rubber gasket (if that
is
>what this material ever was). Well, certainly one of the parts
distributors
>must have these, but when you look in their catalog or check the parts
>manual, low and behold they are not listed. The reason for this is that
the
>gaskets came as part of the gauge, which was produced by Smiths/Jaeger. So
>what do you do?
>
>I have tried various materials and have talked to others that have used
>everything from windshield glazing to using the gaskets that are available
>to seal the gauge to the dash, none of which provide the proper seal for
the
>chrome rings. The solution I have devised is to make my own gaskets. To
do
>this, you will need the following materials:
>
> 1. Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket maker (part #29208)
>2. Universal Pump Dispenser (this is a plastic syringe found in the glue
>section of your local hardware store)
>3. An Exacto knife or any arts and crafts sharp cutting blade
>4. Q-Tips
>5. Pam cooking spray
>6. Small screwdriver or dental pick
>
>The Permatex gasket maker is a silicon-based material that cures to a
>flexible rubbery composition that is easy to work with and makes a great
>gasket. Here is what you do to make your gasket:
>
>1. Clean out the inside of the gauge cover ring of any of the remains of
the
>old gasket.
>2. Cut off the tip of the syringe to the size opening that allows enough
>material to by pushed out to the thickness of the gasket you need to make.
>3. Depending on the number of gasket you will be making, fill the syringe
>with the Permatex.
>4. Spray the tip of the Q-tip with the Pam and wipe this on the inside of
>the ring, but do not saturate the surface.
>5. Take the syringe and evenly apply the Permatex in the grove for the
>gasket to the height just below the inner lip of the ring. You will get
>some "waves" in the material and uneven application, but this is okay.
Just
>be sure that it is a continuous bead of material that fills in the grove.
>6. Let the Permatex cure for 24 hours.
>7. Using the small screwdriver or the dental pick, work this under the
>gasket and pry up the gasket until it is released from the ring. There
will
>be some spots that the Permatex will remain stuck in small bits and these
>can be removed by just scraping them off to clean up the surface.
>8. Using the exacto blade, trim the gasket of any uneven areas or bulges.
>Don't be shy since the material is very pliable and cuts easily.
>
>You will not have a perfect looking gasket, but this will absolutely
provide
>you with a good seal and one that will remain flexible for the next time
you
>need to disassemble the gauge.
>
>Hope this helps. BTW, for those who are aware of my extended restoration
of
>the '59 TR3, I am proud to announce that I fired up the engine today for
the
>first time since I rebuild the head and had the lower end done. Had a real
>tough time adjusting the timing, but once we got that figured out (don't
>forget the notion of being "off a tooth"), it fired up and ran great. Some
>minor adjustment with the carbs and all was fine. One problem was the fuel
>shut off tap leaked, so I just bypassed this and will deal with it later.
>Anyway, I'm certainly excited!
>
>Scott Suhring
>Elizabethtown, PA
>'70 TR6
>'59 TR3
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On
>Behalf Of Mickylong@aol.com
>Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2003 9:57 AM
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: Gauge repair
>
>OK. Following the advice of those who have been there and done it, I
>managed
>to pry and twist the front bezels off two of my gauges. And now I know why
>it was so tough -- it looks like the material behind the bezel that fits to
>the glass face (was this rubber at some point?) after 31+ years in the sun
>has either crumbled to dust or has become rock hard and stuck. Either way,
>it's toast.
>
>What's my best bet for replacing this -- I assume the bezel won't fit tight
>against the glass unless some type of material is added. I was thinking
>about gasket material or maybe fashioning a seal out of clear silicone
>caulk.
> Any other thoughts?
>
>
>Micky Long, Atlanta
>72 TR 6
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|