Steven,
You might compare stamped casing numbers to see if you have an early and late
axle you're mixing - I've read there was a slight mod in there but most
likely you are OK considering the items you want to swap.
The shims are so you can get .004" to .006" 'end float' on your outer wheel
bearings - and for centering the thrust button in the middle of your
diferential. The workshop manual says equal shims on both sides. The wheels
ride on
tapered bearings so you want these bearings seated but with just a hair of
clearance. In this case I would re-measure your's on reassembly. You can easily
see
the center button with the rear cover off. Each bearing should move sideways
back and forth just .005". The book shows a gauge fixed to the backing plate
and
measuring in and out movement of the axle's hub - add or subtract shims (and
bolt down) till result is .005" sideways movement. Ps; did you know a typical
piece of copier paper is .004" thick? That's the minimum amount of play in the
bearings you're after - but don't get any wise ideas using paper as a gauge!
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
Question 1: is it okay to do this, or are there subtle goings-on inside
the diff that would make it important to use the half-axles that came
with the new rear end?
Question 2: if it's pretty much okay to put the old half-axles in the
new rear end, what should I do about the shim packs? The old axle had
two shims on each side, and the new axle had one on the left and three
on the right. Guessing that the shims adjust for the centering of the
guts of the diff, I'm leaning towards using the new axle shim packs (1
and 3) with the old half-axles. If that makes sense, does it sound
right? Thanks.
Steven Newell
Littleton, CO
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