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RE: TR4A Wiring Harness

To: "'homebru@mindspring.com'" <homebru@mindspring.com>, "triumphs@Autox.Team.Net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: TR4A Wiring Harness
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 09:12:14 -0700
Hi Chris,

Sounds like a pretty radical endeavor for a horn problem, but if you're really 
up for it, go for it!

I did my TR4A a couple of years ago, and found a couple of things helped.

1. Get a big schematic, and memorize the colo(u)r codes. The handbook's OK, but 
too small. Enlarge it up on a copier.
2. Trying to rout all the wires while looking at colors/schematics is a waste 
of time. First lay out the harness on the floor and tag where they go. It 
really makes the job go much faster. This will also give you a good idea how 
it's physically routed.
3. Install the big bulkhead grommet while the harness is on the floor. Trying 
to do this while on the car hurts your back while bending over for 1/2 hour. 
The other grommets go on fairly easy, but the big one takes some time.
4. Buy some extra wire and connectors. Unless you're a purest now is the time 
to do any mods, such as adding heavier gauge wire to run the stereo, or speaker 
wire, extra fuses, etc.. Wrap them with electrical tape to the main loom. Write 
down any mods on the schematic, including wire colors. (I used a different 
color tape so I knew where I had added wires).
5. Make up a ground harness for the instrument lamps. Nothing special, just 4 
female spade connectors in series spread 6 inches apart, and a screw connector 
at the end. (I'm assuming you have the wood dash, so the instruments aren't 
grounded like in older 4's).
6. Get about 5 feet of tubing for the retainer insulation, and cut 3 feet of it 
into 4 inch segments. These slip over the retainers that holds the harness in 
place in the engine compartment and under the dash. The other 2 feet will be 
used for the rear license plate lights wire protection. I found some 1/2 inch 
thin wall black air tubing at Fry's Electronics that worked perfect.
7.  Buy a few solder type bullet connectors from Moss 162-200. Also 3 or 4 
single and double connectors. These are used to marry the light harnesses into 
the main loom. Avoid the solderless connectors wherever possible, and if you 
find you have to, solder them anyway.
8. My fuse box was pretty corroded. New ones are relatively cheap for the 4A. 
Use dielectric grease on all slip connectors.

Take your time. It took a weekend to do mine.

Good luck!
John

-----Original Message-----
From:   homebru@mindspring.com [SMTP:homebru@mindspring.com]
Sent:   Wednesday, October 13, 2004 7:39 PM
To:     triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject:        TR4A Wiring Harness

Welp,

I guess it's time to bite the bullet (connector).  I have yet to get my horn 
working, so no inspection, so no driving out of the neighborhood.  I was told 
by a LBC mechanic that the wiring harness in Daphne (67 TR4A) is a cobbled 
together mess from a TR6 and another Triumph harness.

My question is:
Do you think I am capable of installing a new one myself?  I am fairly 
technical (Engineer), and my other hobby is repairing and refurbishing pinball 
machines.  Is it as simple as labling the old one, and trying to match the new 
one?  I know how to read a multi-meter.  Has anyone done this lately?  What 
other tools might I need.

I refuse to give into the Dark Side (Lucas).

Thanks for any light (pun intended) you may be able to shed on this subject,
Chris

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