Bill,
While I cant help you with the heater core since I havent ventured into
that repair yet, I can assist with the heater valve, assuming that the
250 has the same set-up as the TR6. The repair is quite simple with
the toughest part being that you might not have a wrench big enough to
loosen the valve. You will need two wrenchs to do the job, but before
loosening anything take a picture or note what position the valve is in
so you can duplicate it during installation. One wrench to hold the
heater valve and one to hold the pipe. Alternatively, you will need
one wrench and a bench vise. You can take the valve and pipe off the
car and the clamp the pipe and remove the valve. Or, if you loosen the
valve only, you might find that the valve loosens before the pipe.
With me so far?
After you get the valve off, take a few moments to drill out the rivet
that holds the valve together and twist the valve apart to see what the
problem is. You will most likely find something like what mine looked
like. I have posted some pics on the triumph owners web site below to
illustrate. The rubber diaphram is most likely shot. If only there was
a vendor that sold the diagphram instead of the whole valve assembly.
Installation is the opposite of removal with the exception that I used
plumbers tape around the pipe threads when I reassembled.
Now, typically there is a problem with these valves with them not being
able to shut completely from inside the car. As you are tightening the
valve go slow as you approach the final valve position and hook up the
heater cable. Now adjust the heater valve turning in very slight
increments, testing the heater cable operation after each adjustment.
Hopefully at some point you will find the valve will completely close
from inside the car. It isnt as important to get the valve to
completely open as often almost completely open will still provide
enough coolant flow and heat within the cockpit to keep the occupants
warm.
Hopefully this is somewhat clear. Let me know if I havent explained
something well enough.
Cheers,
Aaron
Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
Topsham, Maine
-----Original Message-----
From: Steinman, Bill <wsteinman@pogolaw.com>
To: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 18 Oct 2005 12:29:21 -0400
Subject: Drip-Fssss....Drip-Fssss...Drip-Fssss
Yesterday my TR250 treated me to the unmistakable sound of fluid
dripping and vaporizing on a hot surface. I popped the hood and -- you
guessed it -- the heater valve I've been eyeing suspiciously for months
has sprung a slow leak. It was a cold morning, and the leak seemed to
stop as the car got warmed up, but I'm going to take corrective action
now and order a new valve from Moss today. Any words of wisdom or
warnings about what to expect during replacement?
As a side note, my heater core is also leaking a bit (or at least it
would if I opened the valve -- tell-tale flakes of white corrosion can
be found on the carpets from time to time). That, however, will be a
winter project, and my girlfriend will have to brave a cold passanger
compartment. However, I'd love any insight on what to expect from
replacing the core.
As always, thanks everyone!
Bill S.
TR250 (CD8464L)
=== This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register
=== http://www.vtr.org
|