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RE: [TR] Control Box Q's

To: <Popnglo@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] Control Box Q's
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 18:24:09 -0700
> Where to start? The annemeter will read +30 at 2500rpm, no load.

Assuming this is a factory-equivalent generator, that says to me your
control box is badly misadjusted.  It should limit the output of the
generator to around 20 amps under all conditions.

> The  generator (dynamo) is new.

Having been through this myself many years ago, I can vouch that running for
long under these conditions will net you a new, broken generator.

> The Control Box I put together from 2 into 1.

That sounds dangerous to me ... did you set all the mechanical clearances
properly ?  Get the contacts lined up right ?  Follow the right instructions
in the Bentley ?  (You should have an RB106-2, not a RB106-1)

Specifically, with no power applied, what is the gap between the regulator
coil end piece, and the moving armature ?  If you press the armature down
with your finger, does it meet the end piece squarely ?  If not, you need to
loosen the screws and move it around until it hits square, both side-to-side
and front-to-back, then tighten the screws again.  Then check/reset the gap
to .015".

> The control box
> feels hot to the touch after driving.

It's normal for it to get somewhat warm, since there is a resistor in the
base that dissipates a few watts when the battery is charged.  Heavy
charging might also get it warm.

> The past weekend I put a voltmeter to it
> and followed the procedures in Bently and Haynes to adjust both the
regulator
> and the cut out, not very successfully.

So, what happened when you tried ?  Obviously the cutout is working well
enough, no need to mess with that for the moment.  But it certainly sounds
as though the regulator is not opening to limit the current (and possibly
the voltage).

>  Now it seems that the glow is gone, but the annemeter
> seems high. What next?

My first question is, what changes have been made to the wiring ?  Where are
the foglights connected in ?

Are the wires to the A & A1 terminals the right way around ?  To find out,
pull off the A1 wire and check with a meter or test lamp whether the A1
terminal stays hot (electrically, -12v to ground) or the wire does.

What voltage do you read at the battery with the engine not running and
everything turned off ?
What's the voltage between the A and E terminals with the engine running at
a fast idle ?  What does the A-E voltage do if you disconnect the wire from
F ?

That should be enough to get you started.

Randall


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