Hi Jeffrey,
My TR4 door link tabs were stretched, worn, and holes were ready to snap
open, too. But my doors are totally stripped so I was able to clamp a new
washer
to top of upper tab and another washer below lower tab and insert a clevis pin
to ensure holes were located as close to door as possible (as original). Then
thoroughly braze washers to tabs and surrounding door metal. The paint was
damaged in immediate area and there was some grinding and filing to get all
back
to the smallest looking repair. I'm pretty sure these tabs will never be a
problem again and the rubber boots will still work as original.
A bolt-in fix I considered: drill out the spot-welded-in bracketing
(installed from inside the door), manufacture new brackets from scratch, and
bolt back
in.
Note; I've noticed some of the new TR4-6 door links on the market are missing
the steel washer nearest the snapping part. I think manufactures used
incorrectly drawn parts from parts catalogues rather than the real item. I've
seen it
before. Anyway, the door link steel washer is critical for rubber cushion
safety, and total length of door opening spec.
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
Hi, Folks,
I'm replacing the check straps on my TR4, something I've been meaning
to do, literally, for years.
Now that I've got all the panels off and I'm in there, I see I have a
two-fold problem. The checkstrap assembly provided by Moss goes into the
kick panel area just in front of the door without issues. The problem
I've encountered is the 'anchor' portion of the check strap on the door
itself. It is distorted and almost torn free from the door.
The PO who was the original owner must have been pretty heavy handed and
threw the door open pretty hard.
Is there a repair part for this? The anchor is spot welded to the door
frame, so it's not something you can unbolt and replace.
Any suggestions from the folks who have BTDT?
Thanks!
-jeffrey<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> See what's new
at http://www.aol.com</HTML>
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