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Re: [TR] Body Solder

To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Body Solder
From: auprichard@comcast.net
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 19:28:22 +0000
I took my TR3 to a restoration shop a year ago and the owner lets me go over 
every weekend to work on the car - I pay him for his time and materials and I 
learn as I go.  I asked him about this issue, so these comments are from a 
professional:
- he's never heard of lead-free solder bodywork
- he says he never uses lead and doesn't know of anyone who does these days
- unlike filler, lead will not absorb water, but water will get in and rust 
will eventually return
- the best remedy is to weld in a new patch

If a patch is not possible there is a gadget called a scatter-gun which fires 
molten metal on to a surface.  It is used when there is considerable pitting 
and the surface is to be re-chromed. Hope this helps.

Andrew Uprichard

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> 

> > Does anyone know if tin/copper lead free solder on a 
> > roll (plumbing) with 
> > no flux core is the same that is sold as lead free body 
> > solder? 
> 
> I don't know (didn't even know there was such a thing as lead-free body 
> solder), but I would be very surprised if it was the same. Ordinary body 
> lead is a special alloy with a large plastic range (where it's not quite 
> solid and not quite liquid) to facilitate working it into shape. Plumbing 
> (and electronic) solder are generally alloys designed to harden quickly once 
> heat is removed (to reduce chances of movement during the cooling process 
> causing a "cold" joint that can fail later). 
> 
> > Body filller is not an acceptable soluton as there are pin 
> > holes that need 
> > to be filled and I do not like to fill holes with filler. 
> 
> FWIW, a friend of mine used POR-15 to fill a sea of pinholes in an 
> inaccessible area; and reported being quite happy with the results. Haven't 
> had the pleasure myself, but I'll definitely try it if the situation comes 
> up. 
> 
> Also FWIW, I've found lead-free plumbing solder to be almost impossible to 
> work with on steel. Possibly I need a different flux or something; but I 
> wound up using more expensive electronics lead solder. 
> 
> Randall 
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