Just run a compression test. If it is satisfactory a leak down test is
unnecessary. If it is not satisfactory then you can do the leak down to find
out where the leak is. My leak down tester only charges one cylinder at a
time. With the piston at top dead center the engine does not rotate from the
pressure.
Best regards,
Tom
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> From: aribert.neumann@edag-us.com
> Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:28:33 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Leak down engine testing? {Scanned}
>
> I want to know a bit more about a used 6 cyl engine that I have bought
> before installing it. I have never done a leak down test but have read
> numerous articles on doing so. This engine has at most 1 hr of run time
> in the past year and has not been started in the previous 5 or more years.
> Two of the plugs look oil fouled, the rest look OK. Lowering a small
> inspection light thru the spark plug holes, the surface (that I can see) of
> the bores look nice and shiney (no rust). I am considering having the
> head rebuilt next winter to have with hardened valve seats so that leaves
> most of my focus on the bores / rings.
>
> Questions:
> How does one "lock down" the crank to keep it from rotating from the air
> pressure acting on the cylinder being checked? The articles presume one is
> doing this test on an engine in a vehicle - easy enough to put the car in
> gear and chock the wheels.
>
> I own a screw in style compression tester (but I do not own (nor want to
> take the time to fab) a leak down tester) - what if I try to :poor boy" it
> and only pressurize each cylinder individually in succession and listen for
> relative changes in the air leakage - any merit in this? I've spent years
> listening to the air flow into the DCOEs with a hose before buying a carb
> flow meter on my other car.
>
> Off in digest land awaiting your replies. Thanks
>
>
> --
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