> I checked ground connections and had continuity to
> the column although you could see from the drop in intensity
> of the test light that it was not perfect. I cleaned and
> tightened the bolt at the end which helped.
Most likely suspect is the ground wire at the rack (which goes to the bolt
you remove to grease the rack as I recall). Next suspect would be the
jumper across the rubber union in the middle of the column. But there are
lots of other things it could be, like the slip ring inside the steering
wheel or even a dodgy relay or horn. For me, it seems to usually be the
horns themselves. If one horn is drawing too much current, sometimes the
other one won't work even though there isn't anything wrong with it.
Although a 73 uses a horn relay so the column & switch don't need to carry
much current; I would suggest using a higher power test light, like maybe an
old headlight bulb, and making sure it lights full bright. That should help
make any marginal connections more obvious. Using a voltmeter in
combination with a test load (like the headlight bulb) is a very effective
technique for finding marginal (high resistance) joints.
> Hopefully unrelated, I have just
> installed a rebuilt Lucas alternator.
Should not be related; the horn should work even without the alternator.
Randall
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