> As I understand
> from past threads, it is a fairly simple process,
Perhaps it is, for the early axles. But for a later axle, the hubs mount to
the shaft with a locking taper, and require a special puller to remove them
without ruining the hubs (which is required to change the seal).
> Replace bearings, etc?
Again for a later axle, I would replace the bearings as a matter of course.
Too many times, a leaking seal is the first sign of bearing failure. But at
the very least, inspect them carefully for any sign of damage, wear or
roughness. Even a matte appearance of the race is reason to replace them,
Note that there are actually two seals that have to be leaking for oil to
come out; the wheel bearing is supposed to run in grease rather than oil.
> 2. I have been told not to autocross (or otherwise race)my
> TR2 because it has the original "2 bolt" axles.
I think you mean "4 bolt" here, the later axles were a "3/4 floating" design
that used 6 bolts to hold the bearing housing to the main housing instead of
the 4 bolts found on the earlier "1/2 floating" axles.
> Should I try to replace the axles with "4 bolt" axles?
Guess it depends on how hard, and how often, you plan to drive the car. The
early axle does appear to be a weak spot; and even the later, stronger axle
is apparently too weak for serious racing. Right, Tony?
> If so, are they readily available?
Shouldn't be hard to find one for a reasonable price. Let me know if you
can't find one closer to home, I've got several.
-- Randall (near LA, CA)
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