Buy a stud remover like this one
(it works with a notched steel cam that grabs the stud and is turned
with a 1/2 inch socket wrench) or rent or borrow one from one of the
parts stores. Those studs don't stand a chance when you put this
tool to work. Also its great for installing your studs to the block
using with all the same torque settings (didn't take much--- 4 ft/lbs
I believe ARP recommended).
I did the ARP studs when I rebuilt my head (1969 TR6 Circle B head
that measures 3.461 inches) and am very happy with them although it
getting at least one or two threads (the tapered threads) showing when
the nuts were put on and torqued down was worrisome but it did
happen. You have to use their washers (0.118 inches) and that almost
was too much stuff to fit on the stud and get the nut on with all
threads holding to other threads securely (the top couple threads are
a bit tapered and are "guides" not holding threads). The payen head
gasket (AG900 for you TR6 folks) was 0.045 inches so it was real
close. I wouldn't leave one old stud in the head and the rest ARPs.
Seems like inviting trouble (oil and water leaks) to me. ARP is real
specific about using their lube and their washers and torqueing them
into the block correctly so that tells me the details are important.
Maybe better to use stock studs all around if you can't get the last
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
On Dec 23, 2009, at 10:36 AM, Roger Wilson wrote:
> I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP
> studs. A
> stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to
> them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left-
> cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.
> I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came
> out using
> an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking with
> Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud
> with a
> propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe
> wrench and PB
> I still have one stubborn stud left. It is one of the long ones on
> manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the
> stud and
> using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the
> block. I
> am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace the rest.
> Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?
> Roger Wilson
> '60 TR3
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