My charging light is fixed. The smaller "F" terminal wire connector had
slipped off the generator. Completely unrelated to bypassing the dash light
rheostat. A quick tightening crimp of the female spade and I was back in
I discovered it on step 3 of Randall's troubleshooting directions.
Surprising that the car would run without it being connected and was even
still charging 8-9 volts. (step 2). Ah, the mysteries of electricity.
Thanks for the help, everyone.
Paul "red faced" Willoughby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <email@example.com>
Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 generator light on
>> The red light
>> stayed on the whole time, even after restarting the car twice.
> Obviously, you have pissed off the spirit of Lucas! Bright dash lights
> Seriously, it's most likely coincidence. I would proceed to troubleshoot
> the charging system ignoring the change to the dash lights.
> First step, repolarize the generator. Not likely to be the problem, but
> easy enough to do. One way is to disconnect the wire from the 'F'
> at the regulator, and brush it against the 'A' or 'A1' terminals.
> and retest.
> My next step would be to remove the wires from the 'F' and 'D' terminals,
> and join them together with a voltmeter (or DMM) to ground. Start the
> engine, and rev it up just a little bit (fast idle) while watching the
> voltmeter. With a healthy generator, it should rise quickly to 15v or
> (book notes to not let it go over 20 volts). If so, the problem is the
> control box, or the wiring to it.
> If not, repeat the test by removing the wires from the generator and
> the two terminals together directly. If you still don't get charging
> voltage, the generator is sick.
> I've got a PDF of a Lucas booklet giving blow-by-blow testing procedures;
> let me know if you'd like a copy.
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