I sent the whole thing off to TRF from my 72 TR6 and for $90, came back
looking brand new.
Got the soft lines from Moss, easy to replace.
Craig
On 05/10/13, Randall<tr3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
---- Dave <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
> it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel pump so
> obviously I need to get that taken care of. likely just a gasket? if I
> unscrew the little wingnut at the bottom, it will (fall out and break) come
> out easily enough? and the gasket goes around the top?
If it is that old, and leaking that badly; my suggestion would be to go ahead
and remove the pump to "rebuild" it with new seals and a new diaphragm. The
original diaphragms will not stand up for long when exposed to modern E10 fuel.
With it off the engine, it will be much easier to check the surface that the
sediment bowl seals against; as well as understand better how that bail works.
The rebuild kit from TRF includes a nice soft synthetic rubber seal for the
sediment bowl, that will both resist E10 and work much better than the original
cork, IMO. The cost of the kit is significantly more than other sources, but I
feel the quality is worth the price.
http://goo.gl/tlnZG
Get a 1/4" drive swivel socket in the right size (I forget offhand whether it's
7/16" or 1/2"). Sears has them. It will make the R&R of the pump MUCH easier.
Justin Wagner had a photo on his web site but I don't have the link handy. So
here is a shot of it installing carbs:
http://goo.gl/z8KgE
You might also want to replace the soft fuel lines. They aren't likely to be
original, but still might not be resistant to E10. It's frustrating when they
fail, because frequently the first indication is the front carb overflowing.
Randall
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