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Re: [TR] Running down oil leaks

To: Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Running down oil leaks
From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:48:52 -0400
Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <1BD3AA8A1F654946B0CF7BFC034C88DA@DaveLaptop>
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Dave;

Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops 'marking' when it's OUT OF OIL! LOL!

Perhaps a few wraps of small diameter solder would do the trick....?

Dave Friedlander

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> wrote:

>  Hello everyone,
> So I am getting close to plugging all the oil leaks on my TR4A IRS but I
> have a question for the list.
> One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to the cast aluminum oil
> filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;
> 1. There was a leak between the large hex "bolt"on top of the oil filter
> casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the "bolt"
> 2. The second leak was between the lock nut holding the screw that holds
> the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt".
> There was no mention of this assembly in my shop manual but I did find an
> exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment assembly. The
> exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that adjustment screw
> and the hex "bolt".  From the exploded view, it looks like you are just
> supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut and tighten it
> up..
>
> My question is, what have other people used to replace the "lead wire"?
>
> I think what happened is that years ago when I was cleaning the aluminum
> oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back together off the engine and
> probably didn't have a way to really tighten either pieces. I cleaned it
> all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for a quick spin
> and all seems dry!
> Two down and no idea how many more but it is marking it's territory less
> and less.
> Regards,
> Dave Connitt
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave;<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)"=
>Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops &#39;marking&#39; when it&#39;s OUT OF OIL=
! LOL!<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic=
 sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Perhaps a few wraps of small diamet=
er solder would do the trick....?<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default"=
 style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave Fri=
edlander<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:dconnitt@fuse.net"; target=3D"_blank">dconnitt@fuse.net</a=
>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 =
0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>





<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Hello everyone,</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">So I am getting close to plugging all the oil lea=
ks on my=20
TR4A IRS but I have a question for the list.</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to=
 the cast=20
aluminum oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;</font></di=
v>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">1. There was a leak between the large hex &quot;b=
olt&quot;on top of=20
the oil filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the=
=20
&quot;bolt&quot;</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">2. The second leak was between the lock nut holdi=
ng the=20
screw that holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex &quot;bolt&quot;.=
 </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">There was no mention of this assembly in my shop =
manual=20
but I did find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment=
=20
assembly. The exploded view shows &quot;lead wire&quot; as a sealant betwee=
n that=20
adjustment screw and the hex &quot;bolt&quot;.=C2=A0 From the exploded view=
, it looks like=20
you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking nut and=
=20
tighten it up.. </font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial"></font>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">My question is, what have other people used to re=
place the=20
&quot;lead wire&quot;?</font></div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">I think what happened is that years ago when I wa=
s=20
cleaning the aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back togethe=
r off=20
the engine and probably didn&#39;t have a way to really tighten either piec=
es. I=20
cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for a =
quick=20
spin and all seems dry!</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Two down and no idea how many more but it is mark=
ing it&#39;s=20
territory less and less.</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Regards,</font></div>
<div><font face=3D"Arial">Dave Connitt</font></div></div>
<br><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>

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