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Re: [TR] manual gearbox alignment bolts TR6 /Stag (Sujit Roy)

To: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>, Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] manual gearbox alignment bolts TR6 /Stag (Sujit Roy)
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 09:43:28 -0800
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <013b01d4c570$2181f100$6485d300$@cox.net>
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HI Randall and Frank,
It for  the Stag  I have 2 aircraft bolts with 3/8 diameter plain shank
that I can use.These are a very tight fit. LD Parts has a specialty
machined bolt that fits  one of the lower holes. Its 24 pounds. Not cheap.

I think I will stick with the two ones I have.

Frank. Rob Sport in UK makes the longer snout. They take your short snout
in exchange. I have  the longer snout. I'm working on a second Stag. It
will be manual with J type OD.

Sujit

On Fri, Feb 15, 2019, 2:06 PM Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net wrote:

> Hi Sujit,
>
> Very common problem on the Stag, which does not have these dowels (and
> should).  On the TR6 (and GT6) IIRC, there are just several dowels on the
> top and not the bottom.  I never had an issue with these dowels on my TR6
> or
> GT6 and never needed to replace them, having had several gearboxes in and
> out.  So, I'm assuming you're talking for the Stag.
>
> For the Stag, I never had any issues with my clutch until I decided to
> change it, and then had all kinds of the classic Stag issues of sticking
> clutch and juddering.  Compounded by the NOS pressure plate I installed was
> defective....
>
> For the dowels, I wasn't able to find any of these dowels at the time.  I
> assume I tried Rimmers and Paddocks at the time, but it's probably been 10
> years.  The bolt holes on the bell housing and block on mine were oval
> shaped from wear, so I took a reamer and got them round again and up to a
> standard size of the reamer, then went to an aerospace machine shop and had
> them make me some dowel pins of the right size.  I believe he started with
> dowel pins that they use for jigs and other hard tooling.  That along with
> a
> good heavy duty pressure plate and clutch from Tony Hart in the UK and the
> longer "snout" on the gearbox fixed all of my issues.
>
> There is a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site on the clutch judder
> issue and snout; apparently it's a TR6 problem as well, although I never
> had
> it on mine.  Worse on the Stag due to the heavier clutch I think.
>
> My Mk I Stag had the shorter snout.  I believe the factory changed to a
> longer snout in around '76.  I got a good used longer snout from Martin
> Dimmock in the UK.  Not sure if the usual suppliers sell these now or not,
> but upgrading to the longer snout would be a good idea if you're in there.
> That's what the factory did.
>
> If your top bolt holes on your bellhousing and block are oval like mine
> were, standard dowels may not work.  Worth a try if they're not too bad.  I
> chose to have some custom made; not sure if std dowel pins would have
> worked
> or not, as I couldn't locate any.
>
> What issues are you having with yours?
>
>
> Frank
>
> <Im aware the TR6 gearbox uses two special machined bolts to align the box
> to engine plate.
> They are positioned about 11pm and 2pm on the bell housing.
>
> Someone on that  forum used one at the bottom as well (slightly smaller
> diameter bolt.)
>
> Has anyone else tried this and if so, where did you get the bolt?
> The Stag and TR6 bell housing are similar.
>
> Does anyone know if the Dolomite Sprint used the same bell housing as the
> TR6?>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"auto">HI Randall and Frank,</div><div>It for=
=C2=A0 the Stag=C2=A0 I have 2 aircraft bolts with 3/8 diameter plain shank=
 that I can use.These are a very tight fit. LD Parts has a specialty machin=
ed bolt that fits=C2=A0 one of the lower holes. Its 24 pounds. Not cheap.</=
div><div><br></div><div>I think I will stick with the two ones I have.</div=
><div><br></div><div>Frank. Rob Sport in UK makes the longer snout. They ta=
ke your short snout in exchange. I have=C2=A0 the longer snout. I&#39;m wor=
king on a second Stag. It will be manual with J type OD.=C2=A0</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Sujit</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"lt=
r">On Fri, Feb 15, 2019, 2:06 PM Frank Magnusson &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fmag=
s@cox.net" target=3D"_blank">fmags@cox.net</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Hi Sujit,<br>
<br>
Very common problem on the Stag, which does not have these dowels (and<br>
should).=C2=A0 On the TR6 (and GT6) IIRC, there are just several dowels on =
the<br>
top and not the bottom.=C2=A0 I never had an issue with these dowels on my =
TR6 or<br>
GT6 and never needed to replace them, having had several gearboxes in and<b=
r>
out.=C2=A0 So, I&#39;m assuming you&#39;re talking for the Stag.<br>
<br>
For the Stag, I never had any issues with my clutch until I decided to<br>
change it, and then had all kinds of the classic Stag issues of sticking<br=
>
clutch and juddering.=C2=A0 Compounded by the NOS pressure plate I installe=
d was<br>
defective....<br>
<br>
For the dowels, I wasn&#39;t able to find any of these dowels at the time.=
=C2=A0 I<br>
assume I tried Rimmers and Paddocks at the time, but it&#39;s probably been=
 10<br>
years.=C2=A0 The bolt holes on the bell housing and block on mine were oval=
<br>
shaped from wear, so I took a reamer and got them round again and up to a<b=
r>
standard size of the reamer, then went to an aerospace machine shop and had=
<br>
them make me some dowel pins of the right size.=C2=A0 I believe he started =
with<br>
dowel pins that they use for jigs and other hard tooling.=C2=A0 That along =
with a<br>
good heavy duty pressure plate and clutch from Tony Hart in the UK and the<=
br>
longer &quot;snout&quot; on the gearbox fixed all of my issues.<br>
<br>
There is a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site on the clutch judder<b=
r>
issue and snout; apparently it&#39;s a TR6 problem as well, although I neve=
r had<br>
it on mine.=C2=A0 Worse on the Stag due to the heavier clutch I think.<br>
<br>
My Mk I Stag had the shorter snout.=C2=A0 I believe the factory changed to =
a<br>
longer snout in around &#39;76.=C2=A0 I got a good used longer snout from M=
artin<br>
Dimmock in the UK.=C2=A0 Not sure if the usual suppliers sell these now or =
not,<br>
but upgrading to the longer snout would be a good idea if you&#39;re in the=
re.<br>
That&#39;s what the factory did.<br>
<br>
If your top bolt holes on your bellhousing and block are oval like mine<br>
were, standard dowels may not work.=C2=A0 Worth a try if they&#39;re not to=
o bad.=C2=A0 I<br>
chose to have some custom made; not sure if std dowel pins would have worke=
d<br>
or not, as I couldn&#39;t locate any.<br>
<br>
What issues are you having with yours?<br>
<br>
<br>
Frank<br>
<br>
&lt;Im aware the TR6 gearbox uses two special machined bolts to align the b=
ox<br>
to engine plate.<br>
They are positioned about 11pm and 2pm on the bell housing.<br>
<br>
Someone on that=C2=A0 forum used one at the bottom as well (slightly smalle=
r<br>
diameter bolt.)<br>
<br>
Has anyone else tried this and if so, where did you get the bolt?<br>
The Stag and TR6 bell housing are similar.<br>
<br>
Does anyone know if the Dolomite Sprint used the same bell housing as the<b=
r>
TR6?&gt;<br>
<br>
<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; rel=3D"noreferr=
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</blockquote></div>

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