What I did was to buy hardened threaded rod from McMaster-Carr, along with
some hardened nuts and heavy hardened flat washers (aka setup washers).
Prying was clearly not going to cut it on my TR3A. A 3' length is under $7
(ISTR it was about $5 when I did this, it's been a few years ago).
https://www.mcmaster.com/90322a687
I found a socket that would fit over both the head of the pin, and the
little piece that sticks out from the frame to keep the pin from turning.
Cleaned out the threads in the pin with a bottoming tap (to ensure I got the
threaded rod in as far as possible), cut about a 4" length (IIRC) and used
two nuts to turn it in as far as it would go. On both my 3A and on my TR3,
there is a hole in the frame for the pin (and rod) to pass through.
Soaking the joints (as much as you can) with your favorite penetrating oil
may help too. Last time I went through this, I let them soak for a couple
of weeks, with periodic pounding (vibration helps the oil penetrate) and
adding more oil. Kroil and PB Blaster are my two top choices, far more
effective in my experience than the home brew "weasel pee" that some folks
are so fond of or the Liquid Wrench I used long ago. It seemed to come out
a lot easier than the first one, possibly the soaking helped. Anyway, can't
hurt.
When I started the pull on the first one, using the longest box end wrench I
had, I thought for sure the threads were going to strip. It was close, but
the crack! was the pin starting to move. It fought me all the way, but I
got both of them out without ruining the pins. Both the nut and the
threaded rod were visibly worn after the first one, though, so I cut a new
piece to do the other side.
When the pin head hits the inside of the socket, of course, you remove the
nut, washer and socket, then add a suitable length of pipe between the
socket and frame. I had to do that several times per side. Don't recall
for sure, but ISTR I used 3/4" black iron water pipe for the spacers.
Again, it has to fit over the head of the pin and the little piece that
sticks out of the frame.
A generous coating of anti-seize will help next time (if there is a next
time). As it happened, I had to remove the pins on the 3A some 20 years
later, and they just slid right out. (I like the copper-based bronze
colored stuff; the others don't seem to work nearly as well for me.)
Sorry, not familiar with "the Go2 socket".
Oh yeah, one of those cheap angle grinders from Harbor Freight, plus an
abrasive cutoff blade, will make quick work of cutting the hardened threaded
rod. No sense tearing up a hacksaw blade. Be sure to wear eye protection
though.
<https://www.harborfreight.com/corded-4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-69645.htm
l>
<https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-1-2-half-inch-cut-off-wheels-for
-metal-45430.html>
-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
> IF I can find a 24 thread bolt or rod (of 2 inches) have a
> nut at the top next to bolt head or if rod 2 nuts, add large
> washers and some type of pipe (but it will most likely be
> only 1 inch long). Screw rod into the pin head. Secure head
> of bolt or rod and turn the nut to press washers and pipe
> onto the frame with an internal diameter slightly larger than
> the bolt head. Keep tightening until pin comes out.
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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