--===============6095993328259438148==
boundary="----=_Part_761023_463868211.1773400853600"
------=_Part_761023_463868211.1773400853600
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Here's a thought.=C2=A0 Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't=
use the stock shock mounts at all.=C2=A0 Have you considered that?
Dave=20
=20
On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu> wrote: =20
It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under m=
y TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I must=
have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever continued=
with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph Experien=
ce" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discouraged for=
a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.
First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades ag=
o and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible performance. The=
y were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov's Beauties=
" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to refurbish them=
. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more force was need=
ed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as is, but if =
not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others here.
Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had=
appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I =
thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld t=
hem in a few places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to t=
hen add more to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer=
surfaces of the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did =
get a couple of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle =
is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my=
hand blocked the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farth=
er up near the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a l=
ocal welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a=
stick weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he=
thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that poi=
nt because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job=
to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clea=
ring and tree work had depleted our accounts.
A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that=
the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the =
instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded ve=
ry doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got som=
e good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceeding.=
The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likel=
y to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instruc=
tions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be th=
inking of the same solution.
There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to =
do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the t=
railing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts ho=
lding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came o=
ut nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit r=
e-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared st=
ripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several =
hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in an=
d then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a=
torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It see=
med interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a li=
ttle farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm =
threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the=
hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrow=
ed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it r=
efunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).=C2=A0
I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to slice=
the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a fram=
e collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's Mak=
ita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wheel =
for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the old=
cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took les=
s than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross were =
hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only a=
bout an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle gri=
nder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, =
and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Mayb=
e there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on th=
e idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do =
have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest =
of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smo=
oth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has go=
ne well.
Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The h=
ardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones wor=
n) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through the trailing =
arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best thing abou=
t the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the=
4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering th=
e jack to allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the dri=
ve shaft. The only thing left holding the old cross in place is an easily a=
ccessed half inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cu=
t through those and then pull out the old cross. There will be more grindin=
g to smooth the frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That=
cross will be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 sta=
tionary forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new c=
ross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the we=
lding to the frame.
The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder ch=
arges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200 or=
so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I =
thought it would take originally, but this is much better than having an if=
fy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?
Tim=C2=A0=C2=A0
=C2=A0
------ Original Message ------From "Stan Foster" <stan@redtr6.com>To "Tim G=
aines" <mtgaines@presby.edu>; "Triumphs" <triumphs@autox.team.net>Date 10/8=
/2025 5:37:30 PMSubject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off t=
he frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever a=
rm schocks.
=20
=C2=A0
=20
Stan
=20
=C2=A0
=20
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
=C2=A0
=20
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 =
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog=
and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member.=
It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
=20
=C2=A0
=20
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cros=
s member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I h=
ave a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don'=
t like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pr=
o welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can=
be fixed that way?
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
|=20
|=20
Virus-free.www.avast.com
|
=C2=A0
=20
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive
sey@cs.com
=20
------=_Part_761023_463868211.1773400853600
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp129ed7b5yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Here's a thought. Ratco sells a Coil-O=
ver conversion kit that doesn't use the stock shock mounts at all. Ha=
ve you considered that?</div><div><br></div><div class=3D"ydp129ed7b5signat=
ure"><div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none=
; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: =
normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style=3D"color: bl=
ack; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-=
stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, =
Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br></font></div><div><s=
pan style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br></sp=
an></div><br></div></div></div></div>
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted_3545343806" class=3D"ydp21=
5788bdyahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp215788bdyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydp215788bdquoted-text-header">
On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim=
Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp215788bdinline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621">
<div><div>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead o=
f under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Someh=
ow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever =
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph=
Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discou=
raged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of=
decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible perfo=
rmance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov=
's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to ref=
urbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more for=
ce was needed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as =
is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others h=
ere.</div><div><br></div><div>Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up=
and patch the cracks that had appeared on the left side of the cross membe=
r (gas tank out of course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with=
C-clamps and then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into =
the channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and =
then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut fro=
m 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but the chan=
nel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see a=
nything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The killer was my di=
scovery of another crack farther up near the differential that was in an ev=
en narrower spot. I called a local welder who was happy to come take a look=
at the possibility of doing a stick weld up there, but he said there was n=
o way it could be done, and he thought the cracking would spread anyway. To=
tal discouragement at that point because I just couldn't imagine incurring =
the expense of a frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower repl=
acement after post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.=
</div><div><br></div><div>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (fr=
om Ken D) let me know that the RATCO replacement could be done without remo=
ving the frame. "Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, =
and the process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to=
Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame f=
or rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not=
in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been =
busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone=
for those who might be thinking of the same solution.</div><div><br></div>=
<div>There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficul=
t to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from =
the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nu=
ts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine c=
ame out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut u=
nit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I fear=
ed stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took sev=
eral hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back =
in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat g=
un (a torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. I=
t seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out=
a little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and=
arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull ou=
t the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I b=
orrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got=
it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min). </div><div><br></div><=
div>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to s=
lice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a =
frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's=
Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wh=
eel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the=
old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took=
less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross w=
ere hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. On=
ly about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle=
grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouragi=
ng, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. =
Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit o=
n the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I=
do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the r=
est of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to=
smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that ha=
s gone well.</div><div><br></div><div>Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs usin=
g just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest part (not really bad) was slid=
ing the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over the splines in the shafts bef=
ore pushing them through the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of w=
ood). This next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to p=
lace a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 i=
n the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle in=
to a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding=
the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each frame =
rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then pull out the=
old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame surface in prep=
aration for the new cross member. That cross will be positioned by slowly j=
acking the diff back up into the 2 stationary forward mounts and into the m=
ounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Ingenious! At that point my nea=
rby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to the frame.</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The w=
elder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe=
$200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more=
than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better than havi=
ng an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Tim </div><div><br></div><div> </div>
<div><br></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Stan Foster" <<a href=3D"mailto:stan@redtr6.com"; target=3D"_b=
lank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">stan@redtr6.com</a>></div>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" <<a href=3D"mailto:mtgaines@presby.edu"; target=3D"_=
blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">mtgaines@presby.edu</a>>; "Triumphs" =
<<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noopener">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>></div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM</div>
<div>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div><br></div>
<div id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621x1b44cab5f9b34d1"><blockquote type=3D"ci=
te" class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621cite2">
<div class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621WordSection1">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;">I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn=
off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to l=
ever arm schocks.</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;"> </span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;">Stan</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;"> </span></p>=20
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in;">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:=
11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11=
.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;"> Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net=
>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> </p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;">I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me =
in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I d=
ecided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem
quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, =
but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the =
left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked=
near where the after market shock
mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog an=
d that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of dec=
ades ago) was a bad idea and put
too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be =
some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a =
fix should be attempted.
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;">That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side=
of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few ye=
ars, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done
anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, b=
ut is this really something that can be fixed that way?
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> </span></p>=20
<table border=3D"1" cellspacing=3D"5" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"border:non=
e;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt;" class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNorm=
alTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width=3D"55" style=3D"width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .7=
5pt .75pt;">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><a href=3D"https://www.avast=
.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3D=
sig-email&utm_content=3Demailclient" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noopener"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;text-decoration:none;"><i=
mg border=3D"0" width=3D"46" height=3D"29" style=3D"width:.4791in;min-heigh=
t:.3041in;" id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621_x0000_i1025" src=3D"https://s-in=
stall.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-=
no-repeat-v1.gif" data-inlineimagemanipulating=3D"true"></span></a><span st=
yle=3D"font-family:sans-serif;"></span></p>=20
</td>
<td width=3D"470" style=3D"width:352.5pt;border:none;padding:9.0pt .75pt .7=
5pt .75pt;">
<p style=3D"line-height:13.5pt;" class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal=
"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:#41424E;">Vi=
rus-free.<a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&=
utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Demailclien=
t" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener"><span style=3D"color:#4453=
EA;">www.avast.com</span></a></span></p>=20
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> </p>=20
</div>
</div>
</blockquote></div>
</div></div>** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank"=
rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br><br>Donate: =
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer noopener">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"h=
ttp://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noopener">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> <a href=3D"http:=
//www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">http:=
//www.team.net/archive</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey@cs.com" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/=
dave1massey@cs.com</a><br></div>
</div>
</div></div></body></html>
------=_Part_761023_463868211.1773400853600--
--===============6095993328259438148==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
--===============6095993328259438148==--
|