- 301. Re: Iron Butts (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 16:03:31 -0800
- Razor--7,500 miles, over a three + week period. Starting in the Los Angeles area, down south as far as Pearl, Miss. up to Scranton, Pa. over to Niagara Falls, across to Souix(?)Ste. Marie, Canada, do
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00501.html (8,517 bytes)
- 302. Re: Window crank removal (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:24:27 -0800
- Russell--After trying various other methods, I found that using a 1/84(diam.) pin punch to tap out the crank or door handle pin to be easiest. The pin, which is 1/2 inch long and .125 diameter, shoul
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00516.html (8,057 bytes)
- 303. Re: Panasports (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 14:38:24 -0800
- Shawn--There's nothing wrong with "disagreeing", when one has a valid point to put forth. I believe some differences might arise as to when "slow" is judged. Wide, sticky tires will certainly slow a
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00522.html (9,503 bytes)
- 304. Re: Window crank removal (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 14:46:51 -0800
- Jim--I had never noticed that these pins had a taper to them. I must've been lucky when tapping them out the right direction. (Or used my BA hammer) Dick Jim wrote: Window crank removal Actually, the
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00523.html (7,717 bytes)
- 305. Re: Iron Butts (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 14:22:46 -0800
- Erik--Plenty of advice has come your way about what to pack. So ar as "what to see". I don't think anything is as awesome as the landscape as at's found in the canyon countries of Arizona. This would
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00546.html (8,810 bytes)
- 306. Re: Toe-in question (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 22:41:45 -0800
- Joe--It sounds that if you had longer bolts you could then use the same amount of shims that you originally had. Maybe Good's adjustables are a little thicker than the ones you took off? Every TR6 I'
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00554.html (7,975 bytes)
- 307. Re: Dizzy question (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:25:10 -0800
- Ron--What's needed here to get your distributor drive dog to drop down (to where it's supposed to rest) is to turn the oil pump "key". You can use a screwdriver or probe of some kind. When you get th
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00566.html (8,181 bytes)
- 308. Re: Dizzy question (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 12:40:00 -0800
- Vance--There is a product from MAR-HYDE that has a rubberized undercoating. It is a satin black to more or less match what I see as original, on both below the door strip and the fenderwells. Yes, it
- /html/6pack/2005-03/msg00567.html (8,307 bytes)
- 309. APT Instruments Speedometer and Gauge Repair, Service, (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 16:57:02 -0800
- List--This is a good site that Bob referred us to which covers speedo calibrations. Those that have changed their rear tire diameter, diff ratio, or replaced their tranny with something other than th
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00015.html (7,463 bytes)
- 310. Re: TR died and won't start.... (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005 00:00:08 -0800
- Chris--I think the original reason for the engine dying to be electrically related, so let's do the easy checks to see. First, pull out the main coil wire where it goes into the distributor cap, and
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00020.html (9,202 bytes)
- 311. Re: Tips for rear sway bar adjtment, (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2005 23:07:16 -0800
- Richard--I've experienced the feeling you referred to, that being a "wiggley" rear end. On these cars it could be caused from tires with tall sidewalls, as were the originals. Also rear suspension bu
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00038.html (8,282 bytes)
- 312. Re: Rear end twitchiness (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2005 22:22:36 -0800
- So far as what might cause this twitchiness, I would look far anything that detracts from keeping the rear wheels from going any direction but 'straight ahead'. About the only thing I didn't see ment
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00061.html (7,071 bytes)
- 313. Re: Carburetor (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2005 19:54:47 -0800
- Eric--I've never seen this problem with vertical clearance. Is it safe to say that the hood and fenders align with each other? Nothing to indicate the hood is toolow? OK. There is some elongation in
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00075.html (7,083 bytes)
- 314. Re: Distributor Problem (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 00:06:11 -0800
- Pat--There is a book titled: Tuning the Lucas Ignition Systems that shows the Lucas internal parts. It is distributed by "Speedsport Motorbooks" Bercourt House, York Road, Brentford, Middlesex, TW8 O
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00099.html (8,467 bytes)
- 315. Re: Keeping Driver's Side Carpet in Place (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 16:30:05 -0800
- Geoff--There should be at least four carpet snaps that keep it in place, one at each corner. If that's not enough, it's easy to add more if necessary. Dick
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00116.html (6,739 bytes)
- 316. Re: Donuts.... (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 12:34:03 -0800
- Dennis--I am one who has run with the "Fix-a-Flat" crowd for over 20 years. (Replacing the can about every five years, to keep a fresh one) My car has been used to cover long distances and time spans
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00132.html (8,019 bytes)
- 317. Re: Donuts.... (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 23:09:57 -0800
- Don--I know it takes a conversion hub to go from solid wheels to the wire type, but I'm not up on whether one can carry a spare that still is of the solid type. Nor do I know if the aerosol flat-fixe
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00144.html (8,697 bytes)
- 318. Re: Donuts....Conversion (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 13:40:51 -0800
- Hi Dick, Hmmmm.... I hope I'm not wrong about this. My understanding is the only difference betwen the solid wheel hubs and the wire wheel ones is the length on the the lug bolts. The solid wheel lug
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00156.html (7,988 bytes)
- 319. Re: Update - TR6 died while driving and now won't start (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 20:35:01 -0800
- Chris--Some generic rotors don't seat well onto the distributor shaft. Too loose, and they can drift up and run into the cap terminals, which can shear the rotor key. Too tight and they won't go down
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00161.html (7,045 bytes)
- 320. Re: Gas in sump... (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 13:14:41 -0800
- Dennis--You can of course find the problem of where gas is getting into the sump, before taking it to the shop. The "wet, rear carb" is the likely suspect for having a stuck float valve. When the gas
- /html/6pack/2005-02/msg00175.html (8,465 bytes)
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