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References: [ +from:crenner@dynalivery.com: 372 ]

Total 372 documents matching your query.

181. RE: shock link removal (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 13:27:06 -0500
Dunno if there's an easier way, but that's pretty much the approach I took on that particular job. /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/html/mgs/2003-04/msg00642.html (7,358 bytes)

182. RE: How to coat a new fuel tank (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 12:03:47 -0500
Except won't you run into a similar situation with POR-15? The POR-15 will only be adhering to the paint applied by the manufacturer, rather than the metal. /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/ma
/html/mgs/2003-04/msg00675.html (8,713 bytes)

183. RE: Miata seats (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 16:06:24 -0500
I've seen a GT that had Miata seats. But that was a few years ago, and I didn't look at how they had been mounted. So it is possible. /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at
/html/mgs/2003-04/msg00690.html (7,097 bytes)

184. RE: carb rebuild (high idle) and paint (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2003 12:18:22 -0500
You'll need some kind of polish. Personally, I like the 3-M Finesse-It line of products. They can be applied/removed by hand or machine. /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives
/html/mgs/2003-04/msg00781.html (6,969 bytes)

185. heater core (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2003 12:30:14 -0500
Are the currently available MGB heater cores of good quality? I've got my heater box out of the car at the moment, and contemplating if I should go ahead and replace the core while it's easy to get t
/html/mgs/2003-04/msg00844.html (7,527 bytes)

186. Re: Coolant (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 23:49:50 -0600
Yep. Patrick Bedard in Car and Driver: http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/columns/2002/june/200206_columns _bedard.xml and http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/columns/2002/july/2002
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00013.html (7,513 bytes)

187. RE: insurance rant and question... sorry! (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2003 18:29:47 -0600
It varies greatly by company. State Farm, for example, will write you an 'agreed value' policy. You'll have to provide some documentation to demonstrate that the car is actually worth more than book
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00061.html (8,711 bytes)

188. Re: brakes (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2003 22:41:54 -0600
Monte, you mentioned that you don't know the age of the fluid, etc. So I wouldn't even bother with the cellophane. Remove the bits you're replacing, let the fluid drain out, and then replace the flu
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00132.html (7,847 bytes)

189. front spring removal (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 14:22:14 -0600
Anyone have any experience building a spring compressor for the MGB? Front suspension assembly is out and on the bench for rebuilding. I would have used the jack against the spring pan method with ev
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00172.html (7,653 bytes)

190. Re: front spring removal (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2003 10:12:22 -0600
Actually, Paul, it make perfect sense. But since I've got the whole front subframe out now, it doesn't help me too much... :) /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00195.html (7,714 bytes)

191. RE: tappet removal 74 mgb (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 12:38:31 -0600
Ran into the same problem on mine. Obviously at the factory it was able to fit in and out.... I took a wire brush on my Dremel and brushed the area where it was hanging up on the block, and got it f
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00241.html (7,255 bytes)

192. Re: Rubber Bumper B owners unite! (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2003 21:40:27 -0600
in that Kelvin - Probably a broad spectrum of folks you'd be looking at. As a RBB owner, I've never found the power of the car to be all that terrible. In most traffic situations, it's still easy to
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00266.html (9,989 bytes)

193. RE: brakes (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 12:48:49 -0600
While this task isn't simple, I didn't find it to be _that_ bad. I don't know what method most folks use when trying to fit the clips, but here's what I did: 1) Get the tips of the clip lined up wit
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00290.html (8,786 bytes)

194. Front suspension rebuild options (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 17:55:13 -0600
I'm in the process of dismantling my front end in order to rebuild it. As I'm currently exploring my options, I'd like some input from the list. 1) I've been running on the assumption that I'll need
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00299.html (8,492 bytes)

195. RE: Alternator conversions (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:55:42 -0600
The quality of rebuilt units varies greatly. And some rebuilders will only replace a single failed component, rather than replacing all wear items. The best bet is to find a local electric shop that
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00349.html (7,698 bytes)

196. RE: Front suspension rebuild options (score: 1)
Author: Chuck Renner <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 16:27:11 -0600
Thanks to everyone who offered advice regarding my front end rebuild. It sounds like the general consensus is that the V-8 bushings are the best all around bet. As for the kingpins, at least one side
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00352.html (7,916 bytes)

197. Re: more brake questions (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 23:45:14 -0600
Monte, I'll answer what I can, the rest will have to wait for others... This is one of the most frustrating and annoying jobs I've ever encountered on a MGB. It's a bit easier if you use a flare wren
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00439.html (8,127 bytes)

198. Re: Oil Pressure weirdness (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:35:37 -0600
5psi. This may be a silly question, but did you use the same viscosity? /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00501.html (6,994 bytes)

199. blasting of lever shocks? (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 23:40:04 -0600
Got most of the front end of the MGB dismantled. I'm going to blast and refinish the arms and the subframe, but want to know what's safe to do to the shocks to clean them up. Is it safe to sandblast
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00502.html (6,704 bytes)

200. Re: MGB Windshield Wiper Blade Rant (score: 1)
Author: "Chuck Renner" <crenner@dynalivery.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 22:48:17 -0600
big just took a out can't we I honestly don't know why your Oldsmobile's blades are in such good shape. I'd personally consider any blade that's been sitting about for a few years to be suspect, and
/html/mgs/2003-03/msg00614.html (9,054 bytes)


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