- 181. Re: Heating Garage (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 19:26:12 -0500
- I put up drywall in my shop just for lighting. A lot brighter in there with the same light than pink insulation or black tar paper walls. -- Trevor Boicey, P. Eng. Ottawa, Canada, tboicey@brit.ca ICQ
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00065.html (8,033 bytes)
- 182. Re: heating a garage (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 23:12:14 -0500
- Just for a data point, in my municipality you need a building permit to install any solid fuel burning appliance (ie: wood stove). To comply with the permit, you have to take a lot of (useful) precau
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00080.html (9,885 bytes)
- 183. Re: separating head from block (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 23:13:51 -0500
- Related to this, doing this is a good idea AS you do other things. 125psi in the cylinders helps as you are tapping with hammers and trying to squeeze wedges in. Just wear goggles since you might get
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00081.html (7,162 bytes)
- 184. Re: Heating Garage (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 14:45:55 -0500
- I guess it's worth looking up in your local code. However, if your house came from the builder with open studs (as did mine) I guess that means you don't need them to be drywalled when you are done e
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00103.html (8,751 bytes)
- 185. Re: Heating Garage (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 16:42:19 -0500
- That's the way mine is. As well, the garage/house interface is usually finished for insulation reasons. For me, it was one full wall, and two half walls that needed attention. -- Trevor Boicey, P. En
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00111.html (8,704 bytes)
- 186. Re: Bending Plywood (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:14:57 -0500
- Buy thin laminates, bend them into the shape and then glue them together. Easier to make plywood in the shape you want than to bend stuff into a shape. -- Trevor Boicey, P. Eng. Ottawa, Canada, tboic
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00123.html (7,469 bytes)
- 187. Re: Heating Garage (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:17:18 -0500
- Pegboard is probably best put over something else. If you have 4 inch walls with insulation and vapour barrier, peg board with pegs in it would do a quick job on the insulation and plastic. Depending
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00124.html (8,082 bytes)
- 188. Re: Heating Garage (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:19:38 -0500
- I am not sure this still applies to an insulated wall, would you say? No way anything in there is going to act like a chimney. As well, vapour barrier plugs the holes at least for air. (until the vap
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00140.html (8,342 bytes)
- 189. Re: Garage Headroom for Lift (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 23:05:56 -0500
- There are lifts that only require the height of your two cars. The platform rides up at the level of the bottom of the car, so that four posts don't have to be very tall at all. The usual "caveat" is
- /html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00231.html (7,476 bytes)
- 190. Re: New guy on the list... (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 00:48:39 -0500
- Well, in power and cfm, no. However, important to remember that portability and 120V ability is only available up to a certain size, and that's important to some people. I bought the Campbell Hausfel
- /html/shop-talk/1998-12/msg00101.html (7,811 bytes)
- 191. Re: Shop vacuums (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 01:13:19 -0500
- I have no experience with them, but I wish I had checked into those q-vacs that are also a pump. When I was wet-sanding my B prior to painting, the trunk was just filling up with water which took a l
- /html/shop-talk/1998-11/msg00037.html (7,345 bytes)
- 192. Re: wire welders (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 02:37:59 -0500
- Is the SP-100 the same as the weld pak? I have the weld pak 100 with the gas kit. If you buy a weld-pak 100 and add the gas kit, you get the same thing as a MIG pak for about the same price. One adva
- /html/shop-talk/1998-11/msg00053.html (8,180 bytes)
- 193. Re: wire welders (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 15:56:50 -0500
- You will also need the liner for 0.045 wire, which isn't cheap. I would recommend checking out the price difference between weldpak+gas kit and mig pak, since in my case the wire, liner, and tips wor
- /html/shop-talk/1998-11/msg00055.html (8,372 bytes)
- 194. Re: FIBERGLASS (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 14:25:41 -0500
- Inline with the others, I would consider fiberglass to be a patch, and steel to be a repair. I guess each has it's place, but a good steel repair is as good as new, fiberglass will always be a patch.
- /html/shop-talk/1998-11/msg00069.html (7,901 bytes)
- 195. Re: Argon , CO2 , Weld mix ???? (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 14:30:09 -0500
- Pure argon uses a different fitting, but you don't want that. Use the argomix (C25). Also, reevaluate your burn through problem when using Argomix, you might find the problem gone. -- Trevor Boicey,
- /html/shop-talk/1998-11/msg00070.html (7,629 bytes)
- 196. Re: Torquing head bolts (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 03:23:32 -0400
- It almost seems like they are trying to "set up" the gasket with a bit of compression, then let it settle, then bring it up to torque. This would probably make sense with a copper gasket but I don't
- /html/shop-talk/1998-10/msg00013.html (7,682 bytes)
- 197. Re: Air tool lubrication (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:30:39 -0400
- Unsure, but the typical oil procedure for impact tools is this. Lubricate the air intake daily with a few drops. This is the "motor" part, and needs daily lube like most air tools. Lubricate the "imp
- /html/shop-talk/1998-10/msg00039.html (7,848 bytes)
- 198. Re: Air tool lubrication (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Wed, 07 Oct 1998 17:55:57 -0400
- Strange. I just use "Air Tool Oil" from the local shop. It's main claim to fame for me is that it's cheap and it has the bottle with the little needed spout so you can use it right out of the quart b
- /html/shop-talk/1998-10/msg00041.html (7,230 bytes)
- 199. Re: Tire mounting equipment (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1998 19:00:01 -0400
- To do this, just put a 4 foot length of 2x6 like a ramp up the tire, on the rubber only. Drive a car up the ramp, pop. Worth knowing, because often in restorations you'll want to blast, clean, and pa
- /html/shop-talk/1998-10/msg00064.html (8,174 bytes)
- 200. Re: Which air wrench first (score: 1)
- Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>
- Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 02:18:37 -0400
- This might be the same set I have. Mine came from Costco, had those tools, and was called "Alltrade". So far I've had no problems with any of them, and have been happy. They were really really cheap,
- /html/shop-talk/1998-09/msg00023.html (8,238 bytes)
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