- 1. Re: Mild Steel Thickness (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 15:51:14 EST
- Hi Rich, TR4 have 18 gauge body panels and 16 gauge frame material. Alan Myers '62 TR4 CT17602L San Jose, Calif. AMfoto1@aol.com ** Hey all, I am going to be doing some metal body repairs on my TR4 i
- /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00697.html (7,402 bytes)
- 2. RE: TR6 trailing arm stud that I can helicoil -- JBWeld? (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 17:15:35 EST
- Hi Chris, I agree with others, JB Weld is definitely not adequate for this job. Helicoils are commonly used for this repair. Time-Serts might be a better option, used particularly by motorcycle mecha
- /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00777.html (9,271 bytes)
- 3. Re: Powdercoating top frame (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 20:04:58 EST
- Hi Kirby, Look for another powdercoater. I had the hoodsticks for my TR4 sandblasted and then powdercoated black some years ago. Looks great! Probably a nicer finish than I could ever have done and c
- /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00778.html (9,736 bytes)
- 4. Re: Vapor lock (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 20:49:50 EST
- Hi Bryan, Vapor lock is real, but this doesn't sound like it to me. The first thing I'd check with SU carbs is the damper oil level. To me this doesn't sound like a damper problem, but it's always wo
- /html/triumphs/2006-02/msg00779.html (8,886 bytes)
- 5. Re: A different brake question: dual circuit upgrade for TR4? (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2006 17:50:04 EST
- Hi Randy, I think the closest thing to a "bolt in" replacement would be the kits RevingtonTR sells and some of these might not be all that far from original. At least one of Neil's kits for TR4 close
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00749.html (9,301 bytes)
- 6. Re: TR4 Fan Conversion (again)... Flex Fan (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 18:14:03 EST
- HI Randall, Like you, I've now got an electric fan installed. But, yes, at one time I had a flex fan installed... brand unknown. It is considerably larger diameter and much deeper/more aggressive tha
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00786.html (8,519 bytes)
- 7. Re: UK based vendors, shipping (was: a different brake question: dual circuit) (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2006 16:44:40 EST
- Hi again Randy, Yes, there's a bit of a cruel irony... The vast majority of TRs were shipped to the U.S. - some 80, 90% or more of some models - and yet a number of shops with some of the coolest stu
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00792.html (11,956 bytes)
- 8. Re: TR5 / 250 reverse lights (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 15:22:20 EST
- No, TR4 did not have reverse lights installed at the factory, but the previously noted Lucas models were offered optionally and references can be found in the factory spares catalog, along with swit
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00857.html (8,678 bytes)
- 9. Re: TR3 Alternator/wiring upgrade (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:32:21 EST
- Hi John, Are you also planning to install an electric fan and remove the stock chrankshaft mounted fan? If so, just get a "thin belt conversion with harmonic dampener". Ken at www.britishframeandengi
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg00881.html (9,283 bytes)
- 10. Re: TR6 ANSA exhaust too loud (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 03:19:08 EST
- Hi Brian, A couple ideas that might help... You could add exhaust tip resonators. Borla is one manufacturer. These are just exhaust tips, but have some noise dampening effect, too. I've seen them in
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01257.html (9,509 bytes)
- 11. Fender vent comments? (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 16:48:32 EST
- Hi all, Before starting to cut metal, I'm looking for feedback about installing fender vents in a TR4 and would really appreciate comments from anyone whose done this. Specifically, I'm considering d
- /html/triumphs/2006-01/msg01438.html (8,269 bytes)
- 12. Re: Annual TR3 Heater Rant (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 17:18:37 EST
- My best suggestion... move to S. California. ;-) Sorry... Alan Myers San Jose (Northern) California '62 TR4 CT17602L www.triumphowners.com/640 ** Does anyone have a way to get these cars warm in the
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01120.html (7,582 bytes)
- 13. Re: Rear Hub Puller - Churchhill copy (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:00:25 EST
- Hi Allen, Hammering like this should *only* be done after the axle is removed from the axle tube. The various manuals and books very carefully warn against hammering on the end of the axle while it's
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01168.html (8,915 bytes)
- 14. Re: caliper brake piston rust prevention (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:28:27 EST
- Hi Paul, Frankly, even though it's tough stuff, I'm not sure how POR15 will react over time to brake fluid. So, no, I wouldn't put any sort of paint inside a hydraulic circuit. There is simply too mu
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01170.html (11,061 bytes)
- 15. Re: TR4 Diecast Model (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:41:06 EST
- Hi Kurtis, Did you notice the engine is fitted with Weber DCOEs? I'm sure that's because the same company offers a TR4 model in factory rally trim including driving/fog lights and hard top: http://ww
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01171.html (7,668 bytes)
- 16. Re: Rear Hub Puller - Churchhill copy (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 19:43:07 EST
- Hi again Allen, Yes, that's what I thought you were suggesting... to hammer on the puller screw (not directly on the end of the axle). That's what I was cautioning against. The factory manual specifi
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01223.html (9,578 bytes)
- 17. Re: TR3 heater rant (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 19:48:36 EST
- Hi all, I read somewhere about a special heater for TR3 and earlier, offered by Revington TR (perhaps others). I seem to recall it was called a "Clayton Heater", or something like that. Apparently it
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01225.html (8,454 bytes)
- 18. Re: caliper brake piston rust prevention (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Fri, 16 Dec 2005 19:56:30 EST
- D'oh! Thanks Andy, absolutely no offense taken... You are right! The cup within the brake piston itself isn't exposed to fluid (normally!) and could be painted to protect against rust. The main conce
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01227.html (9,005 bytes)
- 19. Re: Bleeder (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2005 05:29:36 EST
- Hi Jim, I know Russells and Earls also make them. Can't tell them apart once you remove them from the package. Probably some others, too. Try www.summitracing.com and www.jegs.com Most come two to a
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01239.html (7,353 bytes)
- 20. Re: Optima battery (score: 1)
- Author: AMfoto1@aol.com
- Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 15:44:00 EST
- Hi Steven, Optima batteries are only available in a very limited number of sizes and they designate them differently from the common "group" codes. You want the equivalent of a Group 24, Optima "Red
- /html/triumphs/2005-12/msg01317.html (9,105 bytes)
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