I forgot to mention, the reason for checking the dwell with a meter and saving the info for the next time, will eliminate the need to either rotate the motor by hand and eliminate the need to loosen
manual. Mike, I've never tried turning a motor over and watch the points open and close, but have forgot and left the key on, while rotating the distributor and when the points closed, I recall a ver
Bill, Generally on newer modeled vehicles, you tighten the Castle nut to 15-20 ft/lbs to seat it, then back off to the nearest hole you can drop the cotter pin into. Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chev
the Deve, There is nothing wrong with the price on the shortblock, my place charges $70.00 per main, and $40.00 per rod to repour babbit. Did you think to ask for an estimate of the cost's prior to t
I'm not good with casting numbers, but you should be able to tell a 235/216 from a 350, easily...the 235/216 has one long valvecover on top of the motor (inline 6 cyl, w/ 6 sparkplugs on the pass. si
I'd OK, That seems kinda steep on the price, I just sold a cab and two real nice doors for 500 bucks, from a '55-2nd series, I think I got fair trade. The doors were complete too, cab was stripped of
my On COD shipments you can specify cash or M.O. as well when using UPS..not sure about the PostOffice though... Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
a axel. Rob, Although I've not used the adapter you're using, I've made several sleeves for bearings and other things over the years....what you should first do is check the ID of the sleeve and the
etc. NEVER No telling what he has under there, John. Leave a note on his window, letting him know you have a '59 and need some info....also, if you do get info from him, share it with us as well. Mik
much can I'd make a guess in the 600-700lb range...heck, even if I'm off by a 100lbs either way, it'll still be one hell of a load to manhandle out of an engine bay. May wan't to thing of a tri-pod s
any must Try www.randys-ringpinion.com or similar.... I recall he had setup specs for most rears. You should be good to go with .003-.008, though. Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks bui
I, uh...could use a few bucks... Mike much her. we' $38, cheap, cars. Johnny Mustang, I hit half tell So, oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
If you have spark and fuel...my guess would be a broken timing belt, because the only thing you're missing is air. Someone could also have stuffed something up the tailpipe...did that a few times in
I've heard about it too...some type of adhesive, I think Eastwood sells it, take a look at the site...www.eastwoodco.com, it may have info. Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built betw
doors, rusted to green I believe if you remove the kick panel you should be able to get to the nuts for the bottowm ones...the top ones I think you can get to from the engine compartment...been awhil
purchase search Contact the Postal Authorities in his area, give them all the info you have. Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
mentioned. You're correct, not all big window cabs are Deluxe....I do recall when I was in HighSchool a buddy had a '58 or '59 with all the chrome trim, and it had a small back window. This was late
Not a threat Bob, just a dirty word to some....kinda like saying "a$$hole"....you get the meaning, but not the spelling:) Mike oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959