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121. RE: [TR] Coverting TR3A to rack and pinon (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 18:27:55 -0800; Another option, which I've not seen mentioned here, is to convert to an MGA style turn signal switch mounted on the dash. It cancels by time rather than steering wheel motion, so doesn't need a link; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00253.html (8,449 bytes)
122. RE: [TR] Yellow Teflon Tape (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 19:01:13 -0800; Yes, exactly. Still kind of in the experimental stage, I don't a lot of long term experience with it. But I was hoping it would keep the hoses from sticking to the fitting and it seems to be doing t; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00256.html (8,539 bytes)
123. RE: [TR] Overdrive chatters (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 20:20:54 -0800; That's usually a symptom that the solenoid is bad. There are two coils inside the solenoid, a pull-in coil and a holding coil. The pull-in coil actually moves the plunger, but once the plunger has m; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00259.html (7,806 bytes)
124. RE: [TR] What are the advantages to using a gear reduction (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 08:30:45 -0800; I put one on my TR3A, both because I was having trouble with original starters and to reduce weight. As others have mentioned, the engine cranks a lot faster while drawing less current from the batt; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00279.html (8,606 bytes)
125. RE: [TR] What are the advantages to using a gear reduction (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 08:45:17 -0800; I had that happen many years ago while on a long trip. During the ride home, the chunks inside the bellhousing managed to get jammed with the starter teeth and exited through the bellhousing. The re; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00281.html (8,766 bytes)
126. RE: [TR] What are the advantages to using a gear reduction (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 11:16:01 -0800; FWIW, on my TR3A, I kept the existing heavy starter cable by moving both the battery cable and the brown wire from the top post of the original solenoid to the bottom post. Then all I had to do was; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00293.html (8,786 bytes)
127. RE: [TR] TR6 Hardtop installation (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 11:33:24 -0800; Thanks, Joe. Greg Perry has very kindly sent me a .PDF file off-list, which solves the problem nicely. Thanks to all, Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00297.html (7,750 bytes)
128. RE: [TR] Driving lights (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 17:03:40 -0800; There's a lot more to light effectiveness than rated wattage. My first question would be if the underperforming lights are, in fact, halogens. Tungsten incandescents don't put out as much light, bec; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00322.html (7,198 bytes)
129. RE: [TR] oil filler cap leakage (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 10:01:03 -0800; the I have, although not on a TR6. Chances are your rings are worn. Under heavy throttle (not just revving the engine up without a load), the blowby past the rings is more than the crankcase vent sy; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00346.html (6,946 bytes)
130. RE: [TR] e-mail change (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 12:29:21 -0800; I had the same problem, sent : subscribe triumphs tr3driver@ca.rr.com unsubscribe triumphs tr3driver@comcast.net subscribe shop-talk tr3driver@ca.rr.com unsubscribe shop-talk tr3driver@comcast.net e; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00350.html (7,474 bytes)
131. RE: [TR] Heater Core (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2006 21:50:15 -0800; Sounds like a Stag, except for the many clips. Even had to undo the shift knob ! Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00353.html (6,804 bytes)
132. RE: [TR] re: TR4 heat (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 15:03:32 -0800; Yet another reason to appreciate a TR3 ... disconnect the hoses, one wire, couple screws, a nut; twist to the left and it falls out in your hands. Then if you're like me, you decide it wasn't worth; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00373.html (7,991 bytes)
133. RE: [TR] Thinking of Getting a Modern Car (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 15:21:43 -0800; YES ! But I fear it's too late, we've already lost the automotive war. Much like the British 20-30 years ago, the only thing keeping GM & Ford in business is the "buy American" sentiment; which is f; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00374.html (9,757 bytes)
134. RE: [TR] Thinking of Getting a Modern Car (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 18:20:17 -0800; Well, that's a thorny topic ... there were some terrible strikes when management didn't knuckle under and give the unions what they wanted; and people got killed over it. I've come close to blows my; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00384.html (10,038 bytes)
135. RE: [TR] RE: wheel bearing question (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 18:46:17 -0800; If the tie rod was attached to the wheel, the wheel wouldn't turn at all ! But in fact, the wheel bearing is between the tie rod & the wheel, so the tie rod, steering lever, etc. cannot disguise slo; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00410.html (7,953 bytes)
136. RE: [TR] TR3 heater valve (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 18:53:46 -0800; Not rubber, although I'm not certain exactly what the original material was. Probably graphite impregnated cotton or jute string. It's called valve packing, and should be available at Home Depot, Lo; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00411.html (8,234 bytes)
137. RE: [TR] TR6 stumbling at low rpm (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 09:34:29 -0800; The 4 ATDC spec is only with the vacuum retard connected and working (in spite of what some manuals say). Although US law at the time required that the timing be set in that condition, IMO it's bett; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00428.html (9,210 bytes)
138. RE: [TR] TR6 stumbling at low rpm (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 09:38:24 -0800; Just a thought, have you double-checked the point gap since the problem started happening ? I had a similar problem once on a non-LBC; turned out the root cause was that I had forgotten to lube the; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00430.html (8,759 bytes)
139. RE: [TR] Nylon Hose Fittings (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 10:27:57 -0800; "Good for fuel lines (except barbed fittings)." Just an idle thought, Bob, what if you try to change sizes by replacing existing fittings, rather than changing in the middle of a run of soft line ?; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00438.html (7,150 bytes)
140. RE: [TR] TR6 stumbling at low rpm (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 13:39:20 -0800; That suggests another possible problem : Have you checked the temperature compensators ? Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information propr; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00443.html (8,779 bytes)

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