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21. RE: [TR] Carburetor Synchronization tool (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 4 Dec 2006 18:53:58 -0800; Personally, I wouldn't take that bet. Idle synchronization is not all that critical, due to the balance tube in the manifold. IMO, the "SU tool kit" does more useful things, costs less, is more rugg; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00062.html (8,551 bytes)
22. RE: [TR] TR4 w/ Moss TOB (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 08:39:39 -0800; I would call that sufficient reason to replace it. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00076.html (6,695 bytes)
23. RE: [TR] wheel pattern for TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 11:35:38 -0800; The bolt circle is right (more commonly called 4x4.5), but that doesn't mean the wheels will fit. 7" is quite a bit wider than stock, and even the stock TR6 wheels needed some offset to clear. Also,; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00081.html (8,109 bytes)
24. RE: [TR] Stag heads (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 11:39:53 -0800; Thanks for the tip. Of course, with no information as to whether they are warped, corroded or have already been skimmed, they MAY be overpriced ! Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and an; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00083.html (7,485 bytes)
25. RE: [TR] Carburetor Synchronization tool (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 17:34:20 -0800; The SU tool kit also falls into the "That's so simple" category. For synchronization, it supplies two rods that get pushed into the carb pistons in place of the dampers, and two pieces of wire to go; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00094.html (9,221 bytes)
26. RE: [TR] Idle problem connected to the vacum brake assist (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 5 Dec 2006 17:51:34 -0800; It's normal for the brake servo to disrupt the idle momentarily when you change the brake pedal position. In effect, it has a temporary "vacuum leak" effect as the chambers are emptied of air. If yo; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00096.html (8,789 bytes)
27. RE: [TR] Carburetor Synchronization tool (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 08:13:31 -0800; Just to be clear, Nolan, the SU Tool kit does neither of those things. Instead, it measures the movement of the venturi piston, which responds directly to venturi velocity. This gives it an accuracy; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00119.html (8,340 bytes)
28. RE: [TR] How do you test for a faulty vacuum brake assist? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 08:24:30 -0800; The usual way of testing the brake servo is to start the engine, let it idle for a few seconds and shut it off without touching the brake pedal. Depress the brake pedal and pay attention to how far; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00122.html (7,552 bytes)
29. RE: [TR] Sandblast cabinet opinions (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 10:42:10 -0800; Corey, I have a similar desk-top blast cabinet from HF, P/N 45411-1VGA. It works reasonably well for me, I'm not sorry I didn't spend 3 or 4 times as much on a better cabinet. What I do wish is that; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00128.html (9,231 bytes)
30. RE: [TR] TR4 Turn Signal Lever (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 13:19:15 -0800; Having tried it both ways (Stags always had the OD switch in the shift knob), I'm not sure I would agree with that statement. For a sports car being driven hard, there's a lot to be said for being a; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00137.html (9,452 bytes)
31. RE: [TR] How to put "Lights" letters back on TR6 dash (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 13:58:52 -0800; I believe it's called "rubdown", "dry transfer", or "Letraset" lettering. Supposedly available at artist or craft supply stores, but last time I checked, I couldn't find any in a font & size I liked; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00140.html (10,180 bytes)
32. RE: [TR] re : TR4 Turn Signal Lever (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 15:54:55 -0800; Well, of course that's because you also don't have a "sports car" OD ! With the A-type as fitted to TR3-early TR6, 2nd OD is an almost perfect split between 2nd direct and 3rd direct. That plus the; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00147.html (8,576 bytes)
33. RE: [TR] Carburetor Synchronization tool (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 20:51:40 -0800; Yes, I know. But since no one had mentioned measuring throttle blade opening, and I HAD mentioned measuring piston movement, I thought perhaps you didn't understand the difference. SU's do not. Not; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00157.html (9,261 bytes)
34. RE: [TR] TR3 Rear Crankshaft Seal (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 7 Dec 2006 18:01:06 -0800; Kind of a thorny area. IMO, the original scroll seal works well, if unworn and properly installed (and there is no pressure buildup in the crankcase). (It was, in fact, an upgrade at the time from t; /html/triumphs/2006-12/msg00168.html (9,454 bytes)
35. RE: [TR] TR3 Luggage Rack (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 17:17:25 -0800; You have to 'spring' the legs of the rack off of (or onto) the projecting threaded ends of the pins. The part that touches the hinge should be smooth and unthreaded. If you leave threads in there, t; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00522.html (8,255 bytes)
36. RE: [TR] TR3A distributor help needed (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 17:19:16 -0800; Until of course, you can't figure out why the car won't start after a tune-up, and your friend points out the new-looking rotor laying on the fender ! Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail a; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00524.html (8,822 bytes)
37. RE: [TR] Welding Question (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 11:44:05 -0800; Takes a special process, called brazing. Personally, I would opt for steel. Brass is soft and apt to strip, which is undesirable for a gas tank, IMO. If I were doing it myself, I'd probably still br; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00533.html (8,834 bytes)
38. RE: [TR] cast iron welding question - 4A exhaust manifold (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 14:08:59 -0800; It's possible, but tricky and likely to break again. The manifold should be bolted to something to hold it in the correct shape, and then pre-heated almost to welding temperature, welded and then co; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00535.html (8,861 bytes)
39. RE: [TR] NPT Fittings (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 15:20:40 -0800; Slight correction, NPT stands for "National Pipe Tapered". There is a straight version, although rarely used. BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) is not completely unheard-of, though, on Triumphs.; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00537.html (7,890 bytes)
40. RE: [TR] Differential Identification TR4 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 18:35:39 -0800; As old as these cars are, I would say those are the only reliable ways. The gear sets interchange, so what it started out with is no indication of what it has today. However, the calibration number; /html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00543.html (8,950 bytes)

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